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I'm not sure if this happened when I put it in the outside mold or if it happened from just sitting in my shop for a month or two while I was working on it. The sides have a wave in it across the grain.. not sure how to correct this. Can I just sand them out from the outside one I close the box, or is something more drastic needed here. Thanks for any input!


Jason

you should be able to sand some of that out. You can finish fill what you can't get out. I have seen sides as thin as .065 inch so you should have room to make the sides flat and true

Most of that should sand out but don't worry about it until just before routing for the binding. at that point square up the sides.

Your side braces could possibly straighten that out as well.

Jason: Also get some sturdy side braces on the inside. Don't worry about the outer 1/4" on top and bottom. Routing for binding will take care of that area.
Tom

I'm replying to this older thread because I'm experiencing the same problem - ripples parallel to the grain, which I've discovered as I prepare to rout the binding channels. I'm working on two OM bodies, one cherry and one rosewood, following Jonathan Kinkead's book, and using a form (passed along to me by a friend) from the book. I put in spruce side braces per Kinkead's instructions. What causes the rippling? I had difficulty with bending the sides (my first) and wonder if I was using too much moisture. Then, when clamping the top and back, I used a plywood caul suggested by Kinkead and wonder if that could compress the sides enough to buckle them? (photo below) I'm encouraged by the comments here about sanding these out, but would like to avoid this on future projects.

I had the same problem with my figured cherry sides, when I built my 00. I'm not familiar with the Kincaid method; I used . I think my problem was caused by the wild grain and figure in the cherry, and no way to brace the rims from the inside, completely around the mold.