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Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:18 am
by glenklein
Hi all,

I don't mind admitting I'm a little nervous about routing out these channels. So far, my first project has gone pretty good - this next step is kinda scary. I just don't want to screw this up with any tear out or anything.

Being nervous, I'm playing all of this out in my head first... my question is:

What speed do you set your routers at to route out these channels? If it matters, it's a bear claw sitka top with makore back and sides.

Thanks - Glen

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:59 am
by tippie53
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... 5.8.5l18l0

I use a binding jig here is the main idea for binding

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:56 pm
by Darryl Young
Glen,

Pesonally, I would set it as fast as it would go. My laminate trimmer doesn't have a speed adjustment so I didn't have to make that decision. But faster potentially leaves a cleaner channel.......and I can't think of a reason not to go faster. We will see if anyone else does.

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:01 pm
by glenklein
Thanks Darryl... that's what I was looking for.

I'm going to be routing the channels with a handheld jig (like the KMG router attachment) and a standard straight 1/4" bit.

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:33 pm
by johnnparchem
With the handheld jig, make sure you stay indexed on the side. While routing it is easy to tilt the to of the router toward the guitar even just a little with bad results. Don't ask me how I know this. I learned to hold the router toward the base to make this less likely.

I also run a wash coat of shellac on the top where the binding channels will be cut. I also always work from the wide parts of the bouts toward the waist and toward top and bottom of the guitar so that tear out will be toward the waste.

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:50 pm
by glenklein
Hate to sound stupid, but can I also ask another question?

I hear shellac used a lot? Is this just standard shellac that can be bought at the hardware store?

Also naptha - is this used for cleaning (like after sanding) and thinning of other products?

Thanks -

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:55 pm
by tippie53
shellac is flake shellac. As for speed I was trained as a toolmaker and machinist. Your key is to match feed rate to speed. Learn to read the chips , you want to see nice curls. Also listen. When things sound SLAPPY you may be into an area that will be less router friendly.
This is where learning how to climb and rout cut can be a life saver. Also as a side note , lower end routers will often have more run out that a high quality one. This can make the risk of tear out higher. Anything from Harbor freight GRIPE and lower end suppliers can be very risky.
Rigid , Porter Cable , Bosche are better tools to use .
good luck and take plenty of pictures.

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:00 pm
by glenklein
Ok - so I'll look specifically for "Flake Shellac" at the hardware store?

I'll be using my Ridgid 2401 trim router with variable speed control... so far, it's worked great on anything I've ever done - but... I'm no pro when it comes to using a router.

I did use a flush cut bit when I trimmed my top and bottom (after gluing) using the climb method without any problems. Those edges turned out nice - you can see pics at my blog (link below).

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 2:46 pm
by Darryl Young
If you are buying at your local home improvement store, then this is what you want to get. Make sure it says 100% wax free.

Image

Re: Routing Binding and Purfling channels...

Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:00 pm
by glenklein
Thanks Darryl that helps...

Framing houses and small projects are the extent of my woodworking skills. I can refinish a kitchen table, or frame a house, but a lot of this specialty woodworking language is still greek to me... it's been fun learning though.