First kit advice
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Re: First kit advice
Whooohoooo!!!
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Re: First kit advice
Just found a set of videos demonstrating how to build this exact kit by a William Anderson, who says he's in Florida (as I am). On the second one now. He has some nice practical tips and points out the little holes in the instructions that a newbie like me might stumble on. Not the best videographer ever, but totally worth it.
He skips over the finishing process entirely, having done it before he starts the nominal first step in the booklet. I'm sure I can find good info on that process elsewhere anyway, though. Other than that, I hope the series covers the whole rest of the process.
I plan to watch the whole series before starting the work. Any other recommendations?
He skips over the finishing process entirely, having done it before he starts the nominal first step in the booklet. I'm sure I can find good info on that process elsewhere anyway, though. Other than that, I hope the series covers the whole rest of the process.
I plan to watch the whole series before starting the work. Any other recommendations?
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Re: First kit advice
If I want to keep open the option of re-opening a completed guitar box, make changes and put it back together, what is my best glue option? I'm not planning to do that with this new kit, but I may want to later doing a scratch build, so I figured it makes sense to get used to the future option now on this kit - how it spreads, how it sets, etc.
I read a lot about good old Titebond, but apparently there is original, II, and III with somewhat different characteristics. Is one better for the purpose I describe than the others?
There's HHG too - superior enough to be worth the extra learning curve for a newbie?
I read a lot about good old Titebond, but apparently there is original, II, and III with somewhat different characteristics. Is one better for the purpose I describe than the others?
There's HHG too - superior enough to be worth the extra learning curve for a newbie?
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Re: First kit advice
For glue, basically you want something that will come apart without destroying everything in the process. The separation is generally achieved by using heat, or sometimes just by force. HHG separates readily (or at least somewhat readily) when heated to around 140F.
Fish glue (available from John) is another option, with a longer working time. Original Titebond is not too bad, but new Titebond won't stick to old Titebond, which makes regluing a joint into a big job because you have to clean off all th e old glue first. Tiiebond II and III are more resistant to everything and generally not a good choice. HHG, on the other hand, and I think fish glue, will stick to itself.
Personally, I mostly use fish glue. I can take my time and not feel rushed as I do with HHG. I do use HHG, however, to glue the neck joint and to glue on the bridge. HHG is available in several "gram strengths." The higher the gram strength the less working time it has. I've used 192 and 250. I just got some 315 to use on bridges, but I haven't tried it yet.
Fish glue (available from John) is another option, with a longer working time. Original Titebond is not too bad, but new Titebond won't stick to old Titebond, which makes regluing a joint into a big job because you have to clean off all th e old glue first. Tiiebond II and III are more resistant to everything and generally not a good choice. HHG, on the other hand, and I think fish glue, will stick to itself.
Personally, I mostly use fish glue. I can take my time and not feel rushed as I do with HHG. I do use HHG, however, to glue the neck joint and to glue on the bridge. HHG is available in several "gram strengths." The higher the gram strength the less working time it has. I've used 192 and 250. I just got some 315 to use on bridges, but I haven't tried it yet.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
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Re: First kit advice
Thanks for the advice, Maine. I read that fish glue sometimes has trouble in humid climates, and I live in Florida. Mostly the guitar would be in the AC, but not always. Is that a concern?
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Re: First kit advice
John could answer that better than I could. But my advice is to pick up the phone and call some of your local luthiers (most music stores have contacts with repair people in that area). They can probably give you some opinions on fish glue.
Like MaineGeezer, I use fish glue for everything but bridges (I use bolt-on necks) where I use hot hide glue.
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Re: First kit advice
My lutrhier friend Carter has also expressed misgivings about fish glue and its sensitivity to humidity. I've not had any problem with it, but that may just be because nothing I've built with fish glue is over 10 years old.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
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- Posts: 3935
- Joined: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:06 pm
- Location: Visalia, CA
Re: First kit advice
Here is a recent experience for you about fish glue.
I have 3 violins that I built using Fish glue living and breathing in India. Very high humidity and very hot in their summer season. They have been kept in an air conditioned house, now for 1 to 2 years.
All three had the fingerboard become loose or pop off.
Yes it is due to the humidity. #4 will be going there this summer buti did use titebond to glue that fingerboard on.
If you are concerned about humidity and possible high temps I'd recommend NOT using Fish glue.
There is really no reason to not use just regular titebond.
Six guitars in India where titebond was used for all joints for as many as 14 years and there have been no failures.
Just my experience.
Kevin
I have 3 violins that I built using Fish glue living and breathing in India. Very high humidity and very hot in their summer season. They have been kept in an air conditioned house, now for 1 to 2 years.
All three had the fingerboard become loose or pop off.
Yes it is due to the humidity. #4 will be going there this summer buti did use titebond to glue that fingerboard on.
If you are concerned about humidity and possible high temps I'd recommend NOT using Fish glue.
There is really no reason to not use just regular titebond.
Six guitars in India where titebond was used for all joints for as many as 14 years and there have been no failures.
Just my experience.
Kevin
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- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2025 5:37 pm
Re: First kit advice
Thanks for the glue advice, folks. I think I'm down to deciding whether to stick with Titebond for this first kit, which I'm less likely to want to spend time experimenting with taking apart and putting together, or go whole hog and try HHG even for the kit. In the meantime, I'm still gathering tools and info, hoping to start in earnest in the next couple of weeks.
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Re: First kit advice
I agree with Kevin.
For your first guitar go with Titebond Original.
In my opinion, there isn't any reason not to.
Also... if you do make a mistake, you can worst case take it apart.
Just my two cents.
For your first guitar go with Titebond Original.
In my opinion, there isn't any reason not to.
Also... if you do make a mistake, you can worst case take it apart.
Just my two cents.