Sides in mold-think I screwed up

[0018G]

Thanks for the input guys. Now it's on the next quandary. My neck block is not square. When it's clamped in the mold neck side down, it's about 1/16" longer on the treble side. This could be taken care of when leveling the kerfing, but my book(Bill Cory's Martin Kit Book) says to glue it in neck-side down with the body in the mold, and then reference everything else from that, so that won't fly. Thoughts?

[0018G]

OK-if I figured in the top depth, I had enough leeway to trim the block square on my table saw and still have enough room to get the neck bolt in later. I hope y'all don't mind me talking to myself on here-it helps to talk it through.

[darren]

Sounds like you're ok.

I think you'll want to drill another hole for your M/T bolts. I don't think one is enough if you're doing a true bolt on neck.

[0018G]

It's a Martin kit, so it'll be glued as well. Now that I have the block trued up, it's sitting about .075" lower than the sides in the back. I can add a shim to compensate, but I need to think about my geometry for a while before I do anything rash.

[tippie53]

This is a martin kit and Martin uses a glued bolt on neck .

[Darryl Young]

Typically the neck block is left slightly proud of the sides so a radius can be sanded into the neck block to match the radius of the back that will be glued to it.

[0018G]

I added a mahogany shim to get it about 1/32 above the back. I think it'll work, but even before I squared it up, it was shorter than the sides. One step at a time, and plenty of stopping to think things through seems to be the rule of the day.

[Tom West]

0018g : Cut your sides to lenght after bending. Break your mold in two,clamp sides in respective half and mark with a sharp knife. Remove and cut to the line.
Tom