Fixing sanding marks

[Radmcg]

Ok some of you may have seen my delamination post. For the most part got all of that fixed. Used white sanding sealer 3 coats and looked great to me knocked it down with 400 grit and put 3 coats metallic gold over it (I know thats asking for trouble I just had a can of stewmac stuff at the house). Looked great till I got it in angled light and all kinds of sanding marks. Don't know how I missed these but anyway. What is the best way to correct this. Sand in back to the sanding sealer and apply more sanding sealer or just sand the metallic and apply more color?
AHA

[TEETERFAN]

If all you finish's are lacquer based, I would let the whole thing dry a couple of weeks. Then wet sand (carefully, with minimal water) with 1500 grit, until it is perfectly smooth. Any scratches left by the 1500 will be invisible when top coated. I like to use a small block (like a casino or Monopoly die) to help level, but still be able to negotiate the curves of the LP top. Then come back with the gold, but use multiple thin coats. Thick coats could soften the previous layers excessively and bring back imperfections.

[phavriluk]

Sanding - - - need to do that. But BLOCK SAND, no freehand attack with a folded piece of sandpaper. Use a block. For 50 years I've been using a sanding block I got with a furniture kit, a particle board block with a piece of felt covering the sanding surface. Easy to make, and just enough compliance, for me, anyway.

[Diane Kauffmds]

I will second Peter's post. Never sand by hand; always use a sanding block. If you sand by hand, I promise you'll find shallow sanding "dents", after you apply finish. They are impossible to see before finish is applied, and impossible to remove unless you use a sanding block to level the entire surface to the lowest depth.

[Radmcg]

Thanks guys. love the dice recommendation. I will have to raid my daughter's board games! I pour silicone molds and always have left overs in the bottom of the cup. I let that harden then cut into a block.
BTW the Guitar has now been name The Dumpster Fire. Because of all the problems.
Now problem # 4000. Finally got the top passable not perfect but I scraped the binding. Because of the sanding sealer and gold I now have a ledge where the binding meets the lacquer. I have read that a thin clear mixed 50/50 with thinner will help soften than edge? Any thoughts.
I really stink at binding scraping and followed a video on YouTube using a razor blade and a wooden dowel as a guide. Worked amazingly well even with my tremor. I'm just afraid to try to do anything to "sand" the edge as there are so many colors under there it would look like a rainbow!

[tippie53]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145561352733?i ... BM5uHUh5Nk


this makes great small sanding blocks

[carld05]

Sounds like it's time to do a series of clear coats to both blend in the binding edge and protect the goldtop you have established. Is the metallic gold lacquer? Teeterfan mentioned top coats, that's what I'm referring to. 3 coats a day for 3 or 4 days will blend it all together. I recently took a body to 1500 (with Assilex, get a sample kit) as he described (a Walnut jumbo) and then sprayed satin clear. Worked great with no buffing.
The Dumpster Fire will come to life yet!

[Radmcg]

Yes it is gold metallic lacquer. I have seen Assilex but never used it. Where did you get the sample kit? IIRC I saw it at stewmac?

[Radmcg]

Wow I thought that price was just stewmac. Looks like the 1500 starter kit is around 80.00 everywhere. I thought freecut paper was expensive. How long do the sheets last?

[tippie53]

a lot longer than anything I ever used and you can blow it clean with compressed air you can also wet sand with it