How can I make sure that I inlay my logo accurately?

[Tom West]

+1 for Tim B.'s approach.
Tom

[Mighty Magpie]

I temporarily glued my Logo in place and then drew around it with a 3mm pencil, removed the logo and tried routing. Fairly soon, I could not see the lines despite using a head loupe and having a small gooseneck halogen light taped to my Dremel. It didn't even help when I used a 500w halogen light. I still couldn't see the lines.

Having removed some wood, it was hard to know where I was cutting so I then temporarily glued the Logo again and used my #11 Exacto knife, finishing off with the chalk. This was magic and so much easier but I still found it difficult because I of the wood I had earlier removed but at least I did it.

I then used John's tip from his videos with the felt tip pen and Superglue/activator etc and this really tidied up the mess I had made. Without doubt, I found this the most difficult part of the build so far. The next time, I will use the knife and the chalk from scratch. I had an eyesight test a week ago so I am amazed that I couldn't see the pencil lines.

I have pencils with white instead of black lead but these are not fine enough for that task. Maybe I need to design a propelling pencil which uses white 3mm lead. The end result is not perfect and that disappoints me but a blind man on a galloping horse would probably not see anything wrong with it.

Lesson learnt for me.

Thanks again to all for the advice.

[tippie53]

Having done this a long time the key is learning how to line out the pearl. Practice this. I tried glue and other tricks. Nothing beats learning proper techniques. David Nichols helped me learn the most in lining out.
I use a small precision screw driver that is ground to a point. This allows me to hold it well and then use the .3mm pencil to line out. I use most of the time a 1/32 bit but do us a .020 for finer work. I don't use any down cuts I use SHARP bits.
Once you get to learn this skill you will see a big improvement in your work.