www.KitGuitarsForum.com

As I begin my first build, one of my biggest concerns is routing the binding channel. This dates way back to my early days of wood working when my nightmare Craftsman router would spontaneously lose the grip on its bit, or drift during a cut, or of course, just shred a piece of wood like nobody's business.

And of course, I have done the deep dive on KGF, and like many, am looking for the least expensive alternative.

I was able to find a used Grizzly H7791 on ebay and figure that I am halfway there. And to complete the outfit, I figured I could try to recreate the KMG binding jig or... what do you all think of this little jobber that I found on Amazon?

Tuoren Handheld Trimmer Base:

https://www.amazon.com/TUOREN-Electric- ... 13d670b6bc

It looks pretty nice - all aluminum, two bearings for the vertical surface, and an angled base, so it would work on an arched surface.



Any thoughts? Thanks in advance

Rick

I think I tried everything out there. Each unit has its issues. I still use the fleishman design.

Like John, I think I have tried all the binding jigs that exist. The Fleischman one that John has is very good. I ran out of space, so I use the LMI tower style now. It is also pretty good. I think you want a set up that uses the LMI or StewMac bearings to create the depth of cut. They make repeatability somewhat easier.Anything that is handheld introduces new variables of control that need to be mastered. I am very jealous of those that can master the Elevate style of jig where you freehand hold the body against a cutter. Many of the best builders use that style. Makes set-up a breeze. I had no luck getting clean cuts with that style, especially on the purfling.Binding is not easy!

When push comes to shove, I may just have to drop a few $$ and get the right tool. The last thing I want to do is ruin my first build. And of course, the binding is SO visible. But that tool that I posted looks almost an almost ideal fixture to be place upside down, and then use the KMG foam trick to lower the body into the bit.

Well, I have a little time before I get to that step.first purchase is a hygrometer for the basement and then clamps galore.

I built a Fleishman-style binding machine. My conclusion: it's a lot more cost effective to just go ahead and buy one. I figure my hourly wage((cost of buying one) / (hours to build a copy)) came out to about a dollar an hour. . And that's not even factoring in the cost of materials, which was considerable. However, I enjoy building things so I didn't care that it was, in fact, a dumb thing to do.

For a REALLY cheap solution you can cut the channels by hand using a gramil. LMI sells a pretty good one. I did a couple guitars that way. It is not for the impatient. I could do it only by zoning out and making it a meditation so I didn't think about how long it was taking.

Unfortunate facts of lutherie life. There is no right tool that you can buy that will make binding easy. Lots of experience is the only right tool that will get you to probable success. If you don't ruin your first build, you will ruin the 3nd, 10th, or 50th. It is part of the deal. We have all been there. Stuff happens when you are mixing power tools with thin figured wood. Whatever binding tool you decide to use, you can bandsaw out curves in 2 x 4's or whatever to pracice on before attempting the real deal. I hope I'm wrong and that your 1st instrument comes out perfect. Good luck!

Binding is a bugaboo for all luthiers and if they tell you otherwise, they're full of beans!

I've found that it takes 3 steps to create perfect, professional looking binding:

1. Cut nice channels

2 (the most important) Channel Prep

3. Glue bindings

Like everyone else on the thread, I've used about every method out there to cut the channels. I ended up with the Fleischmann binder. Make sure your bit is sharp and clean when you cut! Woods, like rosewood, will leave a residue on your bits. It dulls them and prevents clean cuts. Clean this resign with alcohol, which will dissolve it.

You absolutely have to prep the routed channels. Although you've used a binder or guide, there will be height differences around the bouts and waist. I use razor files in the channels I clean out any furries and I correct the depth/width of the channels where needed, so the purfling and binding sit nicely in the channels.

Once prepped, the purfling and bindings will go in smoothly, without gaps.

Diane- I'm always curious about tools. What is the tool that you refer to as a razor file? Thanks, Bob

Bob Gleason wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 2:07 pm Diane- I'm always curious about tools. What is the tool that you refer to as a razor file? Thanks, Bob

Stewmac refers to these fine cut files as razor files. I have the one i linked below, as well as an Iwasaki rounded file. They're Japanese files that have been acid etched. They cut very fast, like a rasp, yet leave the cut area like it's been sanded. They're fantastic. I have the 110mm flat, and a larger rounded. I also use file rifflers made in Italy, with curves in them that work well in the waist area.

I use them to clean channels, as well as make nice flat cuts on heels for setting or resetting necks. They can take the place of chisels.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/iwas ... e-fine-cut

This is the one that works great in the waist.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/riff ... e-cut-flat