Harborfreight laminate router
Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 4:17 pm
If you are not yet able to afford the usual router, the Bosch Colt for routing binding rabbets, you may find the Harbor Freight laminate trimmer works for you. With the 20% off coupon that appears in every circular, and the usual price, I paid about $23 with NJ tax.
Some of the mods i made to use it:
First i took the roller edge guide apart, and flattened the castings so they were orthogonal. I used a hobby-mill but it could be done with a file, or sandpaper and a granite tile square. Later, i made a replacement for the roller guide, on the same mill, but the supplied guide will work if you dress the surfaces.
Secondly, the base comes apart into two parts - a plastic square that rests on the work, and a cylindrical part that holds the base to the router motor. i replaced the four screws with longer ones, and drove brass threads into the screw holes so i could use button-head machine screws instead of the screws it comes with. The latter will work a number of times, though until they strip the plastic. By loosening the screws i was able to insert wood wedges (cut on a bandsaw with a tilt-table) between the two plates of the base. The angles of the back, which vary as you move around the two bouts, were measured with a digital angle gauge (a woodworking tool) and a few wedges made - each for a "region" of the back.
For the top, which has a 50ft radius, the wedges were removed and the base used flat.
To insure cleanest possible cuts, i used brand new solid carbide down-spiral bits, 1/4 inch. The roller guide takes care of the depth of the rabbet, and the base moves up and down to adjust the height of the cut. This all makes a much less expensive alternative to the bit/bearing sets and Bosch Colt. YOu just have to look at the HF router as sort of a kit from which you can make a useful tool.
Some of the mods i made to use it:
First i took the roller edge guide apart, and flattened the castings so they were orthogonal. I used a hobby-mill but it could be done with a file, or sandpaper and a granite tile square. Later, i made a replacement for the roller guide, on the same mill, but the supplied guide will work if you dress the surfaces.
Secondly, the base comes apart into two parts - a plastic square that rests on the work, and a cylindrical part that holds the base to the router motor. i replaced the four screws with longer ones, and drove brass threads into the screw holes so i could use button-head machine screws instead of the screws it comes with. The latter will work a number of times, though until they strip the plastic. By loosening the screws i was able to insert wood wedges (cut on a bandsaw with a tilt-table) between the two plates of the base. The angles of the back, which vary as you move around the two bouts, were measured with a digital angle gauge (a woodworking tool) and a few wedges made - each for a "region" of the back.
For the top, which has a 50ft radius, the wedges were removed and the base used flat.
To insure cleanest possible cuts, i used brand new solid carbide down-spiral bits, 1/4 inch. The roller guide takes care of the depth of the rabbet, and the base moves up and down to adjust the height of the cut. This all makes a much less expensive alternative to the bit/bearing sets and Bosch Colt. YOu just have to look at the HF router as sort of a kit from which you can make a useful tool.