Funky old tools
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 4:36 pm
Let's see or hear about that wonky old tool that you should replace but haven't.
Here's mine. I bought this old drum sander from a guy in the neighborhood for 300 bucks, replaced the belts, and have made 30 guitars on this damn thing. I hate and I love it. I should really get a nicer one with an open side so I can sand joined tops and backs. As it is, I have to sand them down, then join them, then hand sand the joined plates. It works, it's a pain in the ass to change the paper on, it's heavy, and big, and I'll probably just keep using it.
ps. It does have a big steel top that goes over it to cover the belts for safety. But it's heavy and I can't see what's going on in there so generally leave it off. I am very careful to wear tight clothing and watch myself when using this thing. It's pretty accurate if I am careful to keep rotating the work to keep it even on both edges.
My targets are .117" for tops, .11" for backs, and sides to .075" and have never had any trouble. I also use this to make rosette squares, end grafts, peghead veneers, and wood bindings. I use 80 grit paper and have to cut it down into proper width strips by hand so that it wraps correctly. I use some spray adhesive under the paper to keep it in place on the steel drum and tape down the ends.
Here's mine. I bought this old drum sander from a guy in the neighborhood for 300 bucks, replaced the belts, and have made 30 guitars on this damn thing. I hate and I love it. I should really get a nicer one with an open side so I can sand joined tops and backs. As it is, I have to sand them down, then join them, then hand sand the joined plates. It works, it's a pain in the ass to change the paper on, it's heavy, and big, and I'll probably just keep using it.
ps. It does have a big steel top that goes over it to cover the belts for safety. But it's heavy and I can't see what's going on in there so generally leave it off. I am very careful to wear tight clothing and watch myself when using this thing. It's pretty accurate if I am careful to keep rotating the work to keep it even on both edges.
My targets are .117" for tops, .11" for backs, and sides to .075" and have never had any trouble. I also use this to make rosette squares, end grafts, peghead veneers, and wood bindings. I use 80 grit paper and have to cut it down into proper width strips by hand so that it wraps correctly. I use some spray adhesive under the paper to keep it in place on the steel drum and tape down the ends.