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Hi Guys,
Ok , I'm getting there with my parlor build despite several anxious moments earlier on but thanks for all the tips here.
So, I have router my binding chanells on the top and it just occured to me that I dont have much in the line of binding cement or similar to glue on the binding. The guitar itself is Rosewood back/sides-Spruce top. The binding is Bloodwood and the inside purfling is also Lmi Marquetry/wood type washburn stripe and i believe its all wood as well,
I have Titebond, Wood Epoxy, and Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. Thats it !!

Any tips on what to use or what not to use on the binding ? I assume strong tape is the only option for attaching it while the glue is drying ?

Any info appreciated
Rusty

I use either LMI glue or titebond original for binding. I use the strong brown binding tape.

I use reinforced packing tape from staples for binding. Buy the cheaper stuff, the 3M is too sticky and pulls up a lot of wood when you remove it.

B. Howard wrote:I use reinforced packing tape from staples for binding. Buy the cheaper stuff, the 3M is too sticky and pulls up a lot of wood when you remove it.

Yes, I found that out too late and didn't see your post until now Brian but thanks for the tip.

Just a quick question to all, I have sanded my spruce Top and it looks really nice , so I/m ready to either put a coat of sanding sealer to protect it for now or , and this is my question-Do I need to pore fill it first ?
I finally got hold of Z pozy here in ireland so I will be using it on the Rosewood back and sides, but just wondering if its common practise to pore fill the top as well ?
Should have said --I intend to french polish the top----and maybe spray the back and sides-that will be a first for me as well but thats for another day

Thanks guys
Rusty

Runningdog wrote:You do NOT need to pore fill the top unless it's an open-pored wood like koa or mahogany. The softwoods don't have open pores hence no need to pore fill.

I don't seal before completing all the woodwork. You'll be sanding/scraping to level the binding and the sealer would be lost at that point anyway.

If you use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the tape, it'll peel off without pulling up wood. Just warm, not hot. A little too much heat will leave tape goo on the wood (scrapes off); a lot too much heat and, well, you'll know it.

Thanks runningdog

I have levelled the binding and also sanded/scraped/ and prepared the top so I was going to give it a coat of sealer to keep it clean from dirt etc as there will not be much more sanding apart from the bridge area now. Its just that I put so much work into getting it to where I have it today that I don't want to have to go back again in a week and do it all again.

Once I'm done scraping/sanding the binding, I sand the top and spray it with vinyl sealer (for Nitro) or sanding sealer (for WB Lacquer), then I sand the B/S and pore fill.