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Ribbon bracing came with my kit. Am I better of going for a timber support brace? Will it make the guitar stronger? What kind of timber would I use if I was going to replace the ribbon with timber bracing? Thanks

The wood strips were added by Martin in the 80's as it was something that would have been thrown away. They are there for 1 reason only and that is to help control a side crack. I have used both , I like the cloth as it is more a traditional method, I like that it doesn't add weight but in reality one method is about as good as another.
I like that the tape is more flexible and will allow some movement. The side ( support ) braces are not a tonal brace and would be an anti split brace so tonally they don't do anything.

I am assuming that the ribbon can be bought at any fabric/craft store. What are using to adhere it? Currently, hide glue isn't an option for me. Also, are u installing it prior to kerfing or butted up to it?

I use fish glue most of the time for this. Yes it goes on first and the kerfing goes on top. I use a great deal of this but you can get the same ribbon lining at walmart 5/8 inch brown . A little glue rubbed onto the back and worked onto the side , a damp cloth to wipe off the excess and that is it.

Thanks John

Hi John, In my kit, I purchased two types of glue. One was the duco cement, was the other fish glue or titebond? When I glue the ribbons in position, how far should I space them apart? Thanks. John A

7 per side even spaced

I prefer wooden braces and position them at key locations. One in each bout and one at the waist. My thinking is to provide reinforcement against common accidents. Like walking into door jambs and keys or lighters left in pockets.

Here is a trick I learned in the Gore book that makes me prefer wood side supports.

Sometimes the sides want to cup and this is especially true in the transition from the waist to the lower bout where the side is curved very little. You can use a little thicker wood brace here and clamp the side flat to the wooden brace and after it is dry, the brace holds the side flat (no more cup). I tried this on the mahogany 00 I'm building and it worked great. A flat side sure improves your chances of cutting the binding/purfling channels correctly. Of course you could use fabric in the areas that had no cup so I guess it's possible to mix and match as needed.

There's been alot of arguments, or conversations on side bracing.

I've heard there are more and more people just not incorporating them at all as they believe they are not always required, generally see it more in the smaller bodies (shallower).

There's also talks on which ways better. For the wood bracing, some say that you have to kerf around them, or notch around them, as if you but them up to the kerfing, you are creating leverage and a vulnerable spot, encouraging a crack to happen right at the seem of the kerfing, where it's un protected, therefore they are notching them in, so there is no vulnerability.

Strategically placing them sounds like a good idea, but I haven't read anything that enforces much on strategy so I haven't tried that yet. From what I've gathered, the linings are less about strength, and more about creating spots for cracks to end. With out them, they could just keep going. Don't take my word on all of this though, this is argued quite a bit, and this is just what I've gathered, or chosen to walk away with.

As far as which is better, in my opinion, linen cloth is better. Not in performance, but in application, and ease of use, but not very attractive. The wood bracing often look quite decorative, especially if shaped and color coordinated.

-Dan