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I'm going to remove a top that was glued with Titebond original.
Once I get the binding off, what would the cleanest/easiest procedure be? (The neck/FB has already been removed)
Thanks
DaveB

I use heated tools -- one is a putty knife with the blade sharpened, I keep it clean and polished as I progress. The other is a butter knife ground thin and also sharpened. There are different approaches to heating the blades the old timey guys used alcohol lamps -- mainly because they do not produce black soot. I use a propane torch or -- yes -- I have a blade heater in my furniture repair kit from Star Chemical (now Mohawk). Just work slow and be double careful at the neck block -- make sure you have all the glue released -- tugging on the sound board when its still glued down can cause a serious crack.

It depends on the top. If I am trying to save it I do like ken , if it beyond repair I take off the neck then use a saber saw and cut around the top. Watch the neck block area then I can work the hot knife under the top at the kerfing. The key to both process is heat .
Don't worry too much about the braces inletted into the kerfing. You may have to replace those anyway. This should go a lot easier than you may think.

I re-route the binding channels to remove the old binding, and then I use heated putty knives, sharpened and with the corners rounded to keep from gouging. I just have a $10 water boiling pot from wallgreens. Get the water boiling, keep 2 or three in the water. As one gets cool, switch it for another one. You can easily feel the difference as it cools off. Boiling it will also keep it from getting hot enough to scorch. Keep a small hand towel nearby to dash off the water on the blade....keep from distorting the top as much as possible.

I used a steam iron on the back, with a damp cloth between them. Then a dinner knife warmed up like others say, and slid it around to release the back. With a top, unless it's sealed, the damp cloth might raise the grain in spruce.
Can someone speak out doing this with a top?

If you're not saving the top, I use my binding jig. Set the depth of cut to the thickness of the top and maximum width. Then use heat to release it from the neck and end blocks. This leaves a very clean surface on the lining.

I have done it with a clothes iron as well, but have seen the center seams separate that way, and they never go back together the same. I have also seen braces release, though thiose are a little easier to reglue as they are not cosmetic. Having your seprating blade be the heat source puts the heat exactly where I need it and nowhere else, but as has been said many times, there's definitely more than one way to do things.

Thanks, Ken. I knew there was some good reason not to steam the top. I guess if the back is glued with a white glue it could separate also.