www.KitGuitarsForum.com

Looking for a few tips on a few issues I'm having..
Did a dry run using rubber bands for the top (d18 kit), this works well except in a few areas where more pressure is needed. Before I use one of a million ideas to clamp this down, I was wondering if it's common to have some gaps that need more pressure to close or does it point to a problem with the rim/top/radius? Also, any tips on filing/not filing gaps where braces are inlet, I've got 1 or 2 notches a little too large.

This probably belongs in building tools, but I made a cam clamp for the above problem and was surprised at the light pressure (if any) it applied? Maybe the bars too heavy (steel) or slot has too much movement for the jaws to hold firm. I'll likely use tubing or my makeshift gobar deck.
Thanks.

Who's kit is it? What method did you use to contour the rim top and back edges? Pictures would be helpful.

Sometimes a couple of clamps are needed at the neck block sometimes at the tail block. But be aware a misfit is usually because the rim is not prepared properly. Bone crushing force is NEVER the correct process when building a guitar.

It's a Martin D18 kit from John. I used radiused sanding bars on a centered 8" pipe/flange. Your statement is exactly why I posted, I wasn't thinking this was right. It closed at the neck block with just a regular bar clamp (not enough bands). My real problem is just before the upper x braces and between the upper X brace and the shoulder brace. The gap is small, but it does require more to close than I thought was good idea.

My notched inlet work is so poor I'd be embarrassed to post pics! I'd have to change my user id.

Don't be afraid to post pics there is a bit of learning curve for most of us, not many are able to constuct a museum piece their first try. Since its John's kit it will would be best if he relayed advice. KMG does not recommend contouring the top of the rim -- just sanded flat and then sloped from the sound hole to the neck block. John may have a different approach.

Yes it will take a little clamping to close things up. There is an angle in the side set for the neck angle. Rubber bands may not be your best option , you will need some clamping force . It won't take much . You do the back first and if you have a disk , that is where you glue up . This helps to keep the back from racking. Then you can clean up the glue areas of the back rim.
Top is done by clamping the neck and tail blocks . first then clamp along the edges by pairs