M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
As I close-in on finalizing this one:
I must of had the neck off & on hundreds of times trying to get the geometry (neck angle, alignment...etc) to be OK. As it stands right now w/ 2 frets installed on the 1st & 12th frets, I am just shy of 1/16" w/ the straightedge atop the bridge. Is this sufficient or should it be a dead-on 1/16" or more...? The gap that was prevalent under the fingerboard became minmalized when I discovered that the bolt hole in the neck block could rat-tail filed down lower than it was. Thus, dropping the neck into place for a better fit. A revelation....
I went w/ a bigger fret size rather than the smaller vintage spec size (.092" wide & .048" tall), because I like what's on a Guild acoustic I have. The finish (nitro) is all but done except for a few touch-ups & polishing that I'll hopefully take care of this week. Then, it's on to mounting the neck & bridge, then setup (nut, saddle,tuners, leveling) ~ Oh Yeah...!
I must of had the neck off & on hundreds of times trying to get the geometry (neck angle, alignment...etc) to be OK. As it stands right now w/ 2 frets installed on the 1st & 12th frets, I am just shy of 1/16" w/ the straightedge atop the bridge. Is this sufficient or should it be a dead-on 1/16" or more...? The gap that was prevalent under the fingerboard became minmalized when I discovered that the bolt hole in the neck block could rat-tail filed down lower than it was. Thus, dropping the neck into place for a better fit. A revelation....
I went w/ a bigger fret size rather than the smaller vintage spec size (.092" wide & .048" tall), because I like what's on a Guild acoustic I have. The finish (nitro) is all but done except for a few touch-ups & polishing that I'll hopefully take care of this week. Then, it's on to mounting the neck & bridge, then setup (nut, saddle,tuners, leveling) ~ Oh Yeah...!
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
You are just shy of 1/16" over the bridge. I think that is pretty good. If I am calculating correctly, 3 mm of action at the 12 fret, your saddle will be (2 * 3mm) + your shy 1/16" inch out of the bridge; more than 1/4". That seems like plenty of saddle to me.
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
Wish I knew the formula for figuring it all out... This is where I become dyslexic! If I read this right John, I should be OK?johnnparchem wrote:You are just shy of 1/16" over the bridge. I think that is pretty good. If I am calculating correctly, 3 mm of action at the 12 fret, your saddle will be (2 * 3mm) + your shy 1/16" inch out of the bridge; more than 1/4". That seems like plenty of saddle to me.
I like my Low E to be 5/64" - 5.5/64" (5/64" = .08" = 2.032 mm) @ the 12th. Will there be enough saddle to lower the string to that height w/o sacrificing break-angle? Ideally, I'd like to see about 3/16" of saddle showing when all is done.
Rich
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
I think you are about on the money.
The more you do this the better your eyeball gets
The more you do this the better your eyeball gets
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
Just glued-up the neck. How long do I need to leave the clamps on...?




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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
depends on the glue tite bond 1 hr
Hot Hide 4 hr
and fish 8 hr
Hot Hide 4 hr
and fish 8 hr
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:44 pm
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
I used Tite-Bond John...
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
With any luck I should be able to get this one set-up over the weekend. Scraping the lacquer off the bridge area was a little harrowing. I used Tippie's method of removal as demonstrated in one of his YT videos, only I used a Fordham drill w/ the Stew-Mac router base that I altered w/ a plexi-glass bottom plate (I needed to alter it previously, when I did the bridge wing inlays.).
Finding a deep-throated clamp proved to be a venture, but I found a 4.5" C-clamp that had enough of a reach. I can't believe SM wants $27 for one Ibex Clamp while LMI has them for only $11! Being that the one found had a straight bottom & I needed clearance for the braces, I doubled-up 2 pieces of 1/4" maple to use for a bridge plate caul & covered it w/ wax paper...just in case! I stuck it up there w/ masking tape so I wouldn't have to fuss it w/ when the clamps arrived. I now know why John cuts a shoulder around the bottom edge of the bridge. Squirrelly thing wouldn't sit still... I removed the clamps a couple hours later to see if everything was OK & all seemed fine. I went ahead and drilled the rest of the pin holes & noticed some wet glue coming up. At that point, I thought it better to let it set overnight.
This week comprised getting a final fit for the neck & gluing it in place. I was using a hex bolt to hold the neck in place but that became a real nuisance. I picked-up some 5/16" furniture bolts that have a Allen heads to them, but needed to grind the head (diameter) down some for a good fit. Chucked it up in a drill & took it to a bench sander. I then made a cover plate for the neck block to hide it. Fretted & leveled the fingerboard. After all that, I got the tuners all set in place.
Question: What size taper does a peghead reamer have. It is 5 degrees? If so, can I use it to ream-out the bridge pin holes. I have 2 sets of pins & they both have 5 degree tapers. I have a 5-degree reamer coming, but it won't be arriving till some time next week...



Finding a deep-throated clamp proved to be a venture, but I found a 4.5" C-clamp that had enough of a reach. I can't believe SM wants $27 for one Ibex Clamp while LMI has them for only $11! Being that the one found had a straight bottom & I needed clearance for the braces, I doubled-up 2 pieces of 1/4" maple to use for a bridge plate caul & covered it w/ wax paper...just in case! I stuck it up there w/ masking tape so I wouldn't have to fuss it w/ when the clamps arrived. I now know why John cuts a shoulder around the bottom edge of the bridge. Squirrelly thing wouldn't sit still... I removed the clamps a couple hours later to see if everything was OK & all seemed fine. I went ahead and drilled the rest of the pin holes & noticed some wet glue coming up. At that point, I thought it better to let it set overnight.
This week comprised getting a final fit for the neck & gluing it in place. I was using a hex bolt to hold the neck in place but that became a real nuisance. I picked-up some 5/16" furniture bolts that have a Allen heads to them, but needed to grind the head (diameter) down some for a good fit. Chucked it up in a drill & took it to a bench sander. I then made a cover plate for the neck block to hide it. Fretted & leveled the fingerboard. After all that, I got the tuners all set in place.
Question: What size taper does a peghead reamer have. It is 5 degrees? If so, can I use it to ream-out the bridge pin holes. I have 2 sets of pins & they both have 5 degree tapers. I have a 5-degree reamer coming, but it won't be arriving till some time next week...



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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
looks good
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 10:50 pm
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Re: M&T (bolt-on) Neck Angle
That is a very nice looking guitar. Congratulations!