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your brace work looks good and clean. Are you going to have the truss rod adjustment on the head stock? If not don't forget to drill a hole in the upper lateral brace to access the truss rod adjustemnt.

johnnparchem wrote:your brace work looks good and clean. Are you going to have the truss rod adjustment on the head stock? If not don't forget to drill a hole in the upper lateral brace to access the truss rod adjustemnt.

I have also had to sand/carve a notch in the popiscle brace/upper transverse graft/whatchamacolit . For the truss rod. Easy to check if you need it by fitting the neck to the rim and noting the truss rod adjustment nut location, if you have those items assembled already.

Did you use a different wood for three of your braces?

Tony_in_NYC wrote:Did you use a different wood for three of your braces?

I think it looks like different wood on ten of them:)

Everyone is a smarty pants.
Three braces look yellower than the rest. Wise guy.

So whats the mistake?

Looks good enough to me - but then I haven't done the bracing on my first yet! It's likely to come out much worse since 3 of my braces are "replacements" from a different source.

So what did you do wrong?

Brian, I can't say it's wrong, but I wouldn't have scalloped the upper arms of the x-brace back so far away from the rim. The upper bout is mostly about strength and preventing the top from folding in on itself from the pressure exerted by the strings.

Nice looking work!

I agree with Darryl -- the upper bout "X" legs have a lot to do with controlling the forward roll of the bridge. Usually the idea is to tie upper bout leg ends into the rim and they are left pretty much full height curving down at the ends enough to blend with the kerfing. I'd at least avoid the heavier gauge strings -- Good looking work!

Brian: Folks have rightly expressed concern about the upper X brace arms. You have also taken the UTB ends down quite a bit.If I were you and if the upper arms are at their full width I would plane a straight flat on the braces from the X to the end, then splice on tapered pieces to bring you back to the original shape before the scalloping. Then rework the upper X s braces. OK all the nay sayers can appear now.
Tom