'nother L-OO

[darren]

Every time I bind the box I'm telling to myself 'never again! build a bending form!' then I go and start another one without it. Just like every time I build a neck I say 'never again without a table or band saw'... guess what I'm doing right now: trying to cut the tenon and cheeks by hand. >:(

[johnnparchem]

Every time I bind the box I'm telling to myself 'never again! build a bending form!' then I go and start another one without it. Just like every time I build a neck I say 'never again without a table or band saw'... guess what I'm doing right now: trying to cut the tenon and cheeks by hand. >:(

I like your mortise jig, with another jig you could use the same router and straight bit to cut the tenon that you used for the mortise. I am horrible with handsaws and following lines.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Robbie O'brien has plans available for a jig for cutting both the mortise and tenon. I'm thinking about getting those and trying to build the thing so I can step up in the world of lutherie.

Kevin

[darren]

You guys are right, maybe I'll make something like this, but just big enough to hold the neck:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... ns#details

[darren]

got the binding scraped back and ready for sanding, then porefilling.

body-011.jpg

I have a question though, on how to be most efficient at this point. Should I not touch the top until the back is sanded, porefilled, and ready for finishing? It has a coat of shellac on, but it is spotty in places from leveling the binding. So should I add another coat of shellac? Sand the top back to bare wood and then put an even coat on? Or go through each grit on the entire body?



edit- both Cumpiano and Kincaid say to do the entire body to 220 before porefilling, so that's what I'll do.

[Darryl Young]

If you sand the soundboard, I would put another coat of shellac on it before starting to pore fill. Actually, I would sand the soundboard first, then re-coat with shellac, then sand the back/sides to help keep the dark, fine dust off the soundboard.

[darren]

If you sand the soundboard, I would put another coat of shellac on it before starting to pore fill. Actually, I would sand the soundboard first, then re-coat with shellac, then sand the back/sides to help keep the dark, fine dust off the soundboard.

I'd thought of that, but then I'd want to sand that coat of shellac off before my finish... that's why I asked about efficiencies. Why even clean up the soundboard AT ALL until after the back is porefilled and ready for finish?

[darren]

time for an update... I'm slowly cleaning up the body, and working on the neck.
Here are a few spacers taped on to the neck blank. this provides room for the headplate when the neck is clamped to the tenon jig

neck-009.jpg

and here is the tenon jig. Worked pretty well.

neck-010.jpg

[darren]

more work on the neck.

neck-011.jpg

neck-012.jpg

neck-016.jpg

[Kevin Sjostrand]

I need to make me one of those neck bucks. It really looks like it would help during carving.

Kevin