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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
Diane Kauffmds wrote:
Sounds like you're making progress Neil. Do you need a caul for the binding?

All I did was glue each side of the fretboard, put the binding on, using 3M 233+ green tape to hold it in place. I kept it and the binding flat on top of wax paper, on my workbenche, as I taped it. Remember to extend the binding beyond the end of the fretboard, so you can chamfer the corners when you bind the bottom of the board.


I did all that several years ago. I'm just gearing up to fretword and making mistakes with regards to the tuning machines and fit of the nut. Here's where I stand right now. There are several mistakes that you all should be able to pick them out!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
Posts: 2196
I have a template that I use for tuner placement. I'd be happy to share it with you. It even works on the back of a headstock with a Martin style arrow volute. Just trace the bottom line for your headplate. It's paddle shaped, but from it, you can make your own if you wish a different headstock shape. It works on the front and back and will give you an accurate shape and placement for everything.

Just PM me with your mailing address.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
Diane Kauffmds wrote:
I have a template that I use for tuner placement. I'd be happy to share it with you. It even works on the back of a headstock with a Martin style arrow volute. Just trace the bottom line for your headplate. It's paddle shaped, but from it, you can make your own if you wish a different headstock shape. It works on the front and back and will give you an accurate shape and placement for everything.

Just PM me with your mailing address.


Thanks, Diane. I actually used the headstock of a dismantles “lawsuit” Takamine (the kind with the Martin shaped headstock) but the fault was mine, not the template. You know what they say: measure twice, cut once. Apparently the jig I used shifted during repositioning despite my best efforts. I even used a brad tip bit as a punch but got overconfident.

Oh well. The damage is done. I’m learning to live with it.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 4:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
Yesterday I routed out a channel for the backstrip, installed it using thin CA glue and scraped it flush:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLZsOd9 ... e=youtu.be

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 1:23 am 
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Keep up the good work!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2020 2:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
Thanks, Diane! I went with a zig zag center strip like I did with my second build. I just like the look better than the 28 style. There was a little bit of a gap - which was a concern and why I used thin CA glue to secure it - but I'm confident I can fill it. If I'd used Titebond I there'd be yellow glue residue.

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I cut the outline of the back plate the other day. Some may consider this to be premature since I wasn't done thickness planing it (I don't have access to a drum sander at present) but I also don't have a caliper with a deep enough throat so this kind of helps with that.

I've also trued the sole and sharpened 3 blades for my No. 5 bench plane and have been working on my technique. I've gotten pretty good at thicknessing the walnut without taking huge chunks out of it:

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I'd gone back and practiced on the sitka top that I'd taken huge gauges out of. I managed to smooth most of them out but the top is now just .077" thick.

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Such a pity: look at that silking!

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