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PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2019 10:15 pm 
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Location: Chestertown Maryland
Building boat interiors, we would counteract the tendency of a 7 foot piece of 2 X 2 hardwood (for a door jamb, as an example) to warp by ripping it half, spinning one half end-for-end, then gluing it back together. I think that a 5 piece neck would never warp or twist - too much resistance in the lams. A reset won't correct twist. And a laminated neck won't weigh anymore than a single piece neck if all the woods weigh the same. Of course it will be heavier with a lam or two of a heavier wood. You can check this by looking up the weights of various woods you might use:

https://cedarstripkayak.wordpress.com/lumber-selection/162-2/

The weights are variable by piece, but all the woods you might use are in the mid-40 lb/ft3 range - mahogany, maple, cherry, walnut - and the glue is so thin it would not add appreciably.

I recently built a white oak neck that was lighter than a comparable mahogany neck because it was very tight grained and this results in less weight.

Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 4:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
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As Ed pointed out, cutting, then turning one piece 180°, so that it's against the grain, should mitigate the propensity of the wood to warp. That's how I make my laminated necks, and I've not had a problem with warping at all.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
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Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
I need to figure out how to take a picture of my #1, and I feel like it may have not truly twisted but it certainly needs an adjustment. It's a bolt on and there are no gaps in the neck joint so I'm wondering if the neck just settled in somewhat and I need to just reset it. I certainly would like to remove it and adjust the neck profile; it's a bit beefy. The body is doing great though; for a cedar top it's got quite a bit of "sparkle" which married with a deep body is very loud! The only thing I'm unhappy about is the neck but I think it can be tweaked.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 11:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:49 pm
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I made a mahogany neck three days ago. I used neck materials purchased from a vendor we'd all recognize. The neck was 'bought right', and was marked as 'off quarter' when received. As I like laminated necks, I cut both the neck shaft and the heel block in half, swapped the bits around so that both sides' grain points toward the center, laminated them to a quarter-inch-wide piece of walnut, and I have a beautiful neck that ain't ever gonna misbehave. Achieved by lamination and a bit of planning. I'm delighted. There's at least one major manufacturer who laminates necks as a matter of course, as fewer necks get involved in guarantee conversations. Sounds all good to me. I don't mind copying somebody else's good idea.

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peter havriluk


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
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Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
It’s time for binding...

I made a bending pipe to use with a propane torch several months ago. This build will have flamed maple binding. I saw over at the OLF that ammonia is a viable softening agent and gave Windex a try. It worked remarkably well. I tried not to overdo it and only focused on the tightest curves of the waist and bouts. I taped them together in pairs (they came prelaminated with BWB purfling) and bent one pair. I quit while I was ahead and have them waiting in the form until I need to install them. My initial thoughts are that I will probably have to heat them a little more. The hard work is done though.

By the way the blue color did not stain the wood.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2019 7:29 am 
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I like to make laminated necks as well. When done right, it's very hard to see that they're glued.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 12:13 pm 
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Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
I bent the curly maple binding last week and routed for the inner purfling ring. I need to modify my routing jig to stabilize the guide a little better but it's nothing a little fine chisel and rasp/file work can't fix.

Image

John's ammonia trick worked well. I focused on the tighter curves at the waist and upper bout and did a longer bend on the lower bout. It was enough to take the hardest part of the springback away and let the tape do its job.

Image

Apart from some imperfections in the purfling channels I'm satisfied with how the top came out.

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:17 pm 
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Very nice job Neil.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:33 pm 
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Location: Chestertown Maryland
Neil

Nice looking instrument - is that your body design? How wide is the lower bout?

Ed


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 1:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:55 pm
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Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs
It’s a medium jumbo designed by Michael Payne for the Official Luthier’s Forum. I bought plans off Stewmac about 10 years ago. The measurements are 16-1/4” wide at the lower bout, 9-3/8” at the waist and 12-1/16” at the upper bout. The plans call for a depth of 4-3/4” at the tail block and 3-15/16” at the neck block. I’ve been told that it is similar in shape to a Gibson J-185 but I’ve been more of a fan of Taylor’s Grand Symphony model.

I haven’t followed the plans religiously, obviously. Part of that is my inexperience with wrapping my head around setting neck angle and sanding a radius on the top of the rims. My first was more in line with original specs and is 4-3/4” at the tail block and 4-1/16” at the neck block. It feels like a monster. The depth on this one has dwindled down 4-9/16 at the tail block and 3-9/16” at the neck block. I like it better. It feels more in line with a Taylor Grand Symphony (albeit with a tighter waist) and is nearly as comfortable as my Larrivee OM.

Another reason for the variance is through advice sought from Tim McKnight who I visit every June. He felt that Payne drew it up to be overbraced. The plans call for an X brace that is 3/4” tall with an 87 degree angle. Tim shared the philosophy that he learned from Ervin Somogyi which stresses bracing lightly with non traditional bracing patterns. He told me to widen the angle to 100 degrees and about 1/2” high. I took it a little too extreme with thickness sanding and the double X bracing on this one, but I resisted using lattice bracing. Tim told me to tread carefully with sanding. This one may not live long.

The laminated necks are sort of my take on Olson’s necks, but not nearly as elegant. They’re a lot of fun to whittle but again my inexperience causes problems. Payne’s plans called for barrel bolts through the tenon and it turns out I used soft maple for the laminates that make up the majority of the tenon so it split during that build. Tim managed to save the neck on #1 for me and persuaded me to use threaded inserts from now on. I screwed up the headstock though; I need to add a back plate because it’s too thin. I haven’t learned my lesson though; I’m tempted to rout for rout for binding.

No logo yet though.

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