Yellow Cedar L-1

Take us through building your guitar step by step. Post pictures and tell us what you're doing.
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ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Plane and scrape

2) The side looks great

3) Elegant and understated, just what I was after
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Ed M
Danl8
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by Danl8 »

ruby@magpage.com wrote:...3) Elegant and understated, just what I was after
Screams quality and elegance.
ruby@magpage.com
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Thanks Dan

It's very satisfying when it finally looks like what you had hoped for. I still need a little quality consistency in a couple things, but I am very happy

Ed
Ed M
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Back to neck stuff. First check that the area that the neck will rest on is square and flat enough for an easy installation

2) Looks near perfect with no work

3) Now to open up the neck mortice hiding just below the joint in the sides - I am bolting on the neck
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Ed M
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Clean up the edges with a chisel

2) Clean it out - I am using one bolt down low on the theory that the upper bolt does nothing - the joint is in compression up there

3) Always have to forget something! Here I forgot to put the groove in the neck block that holds the business end of the truss rod. I will wait until I get the neck made to cut that groove
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Ed M
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Position the bridge, lay the fretboard on, put 2 shims on the board the same thickness as the height of the fret crowns I will be using, and use my 1880's Stanley 14" bevel gauge to check for neck angle. The shim closest to the soundhole is .004" down - close to perfect for fall-off of the extension.

2) Measure the angle - just a touch less than 2°. Happy loofier
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Ed M
Kevin Sjostrand
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by Kevin Sjostrand »

Ed, this guitar is looking really fine. You know she is really going to sing!!!! That cedar was a great choice.

Kevin
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Time for a fretboard - This one will have binding and a purfling line in abalone, as well as abalone shapes down the frets

1) Square up the fretboard blank and cut frets - I am using a 25.34" scale for this one

2) Plane a 16" radius on the board - get close . . .

3) The ebony really looks polished after a sharp blade
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Ed M
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) . . . then mark with chalk and sand with my home-made radius block til the chalk disappears

2) Cut the taper - I am using a 1-11/16" nut width. The block plane is a Stanley 65. It is low-angle like the 60-1/2, but its blade is 1-3/4" wide instead of 1-1/2", and the bed is 7" long instead of 6". My favorite block plane with the comfortable knuckle-joint cap - great for surface smoothing, just like the 62 and 64 Stanley's that are currently being copied

3) Clamp it to the body to make sure the width is right to have the strings be even all down the board on the way to the bridge with a 2-1/4" spacing
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Ed M
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: Yellow Cedar L-1

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Bought these abalone inlays. The two on the board are stuck with a drop of shellac

2) They are all stuck on - now I outline each with fresh #11 blade

3) FOUND THIS ON MY BENCH while cleaning and can't remember what it is for - ANY IDEAS?? There is a flat side to the shank.
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Ed M
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