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I wanted to remove the kerfing from a rim. Of the methods I had at my disposal - carefully chipping off with a sharp chisel, using a hot iron (I used titebond original btw) etc. - well, me and the chisel, not so good, and the iron wanted to take forever.
I ended up using the KMG binding router set up, set for the height and depth of the kerfing, using the depth limiting feature to snug right up to the bit, and, working slowly, taking off a little at a time, it worked really well. I then used a piece of kerfing with some 60 grit glued to it to go around the rim and get it nice and ready for the new kerfing.

Just another way to skin a cat, I'm sure it's been used before, but maybe it will give you another option if you find yourself in the same pickle.

This was NOT on my new Ditson kit, btw - I'm cleaning up a few odds and ends before I treat myself to that :-)

Thanks for the tip, me and chisels don't see eye to eye either!

David L

Thanks for the tip,

I just went through this replacing the back on a classical. I used a heat gun and a putty knife. Once it got going it just started peeling off. My fear with a binding router setup or even a router with a flush cut bit is that the rim does not offer much of a base to keep the router bit from tipping toward the rim. I can see it working cleanly if one was very careful.

When I've had to, I've used both methods (well actually I've used the router to take off binding not kerfing). I bought a knife oven to heat my knifes when doing this work. While one (or two) are heating I'm using the other. It's been great.

Tim B