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I'd like to use rattle can finish for simplicity sake. I've only used Watco nitro on one guitar. My recollection of it is that it seemed softish early on.

What would you guys consider to be the best rattle can finish that can be buffed to high gloss, will have no whiteness lines, and is durable?

I guess it's not a "rattle can" finish, but you might consider including Tru-Oil in your list of possibilities. I tried it on the cittern I just completed and liked it.

Behlen Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer is a good quality product. The rattle can technique takes a bit of practice, but once you figure that out, it's not bad. I get my cans from Woodcraft stores and Stewmac. The finish needs to cure before polishing. After 7 days and using 12,000 grit, this stuff polishes nicely. I don't have a buffing wheel yet, so can't comment there. Final polishing maybe in a month after the film has completely out-gassed? (I'm deeply entrenched in the amateur phase.)

I have found that home depot carried Minwax Nitro , that is decent
I prefer Behlen products but hard to find.
Grizzly tools has a guitar finish kit
http://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(lacquer)
2 cans of sealer and 6 cans of finish
also Minwax has a wipe on poly that gives a nice satin finish
True oil was already mentioned

Danl8 wrote:Behlen Nitrocellulose Stringed Instrument Lacquer is a good quality product..... I get my cans from Woodcraft stores and Stewmac.

Rocker Woodworking also carries Belen. If it's shippable, buy online. I'm planning the same rattle can finish. Have not read much good about.

What are the techniques beginners need to be aware of with rattle can?

Kbore wrote:...Have not read much good about. What are the techniques beginners need to be aware of with rattle can?

The lacquer is high quality (I believe); the method of application is suspect (aerosol can).

For me, I know more about what not to do than how to. The trick is to get an even application that is neither too little nor too much. Too little and it looks rough, too much and it runs or builds up unevenly. The base prep is critical (pore filling) and also sanding out imperfections (always use a flat block backing for the sandpaper -- fingers not good enough) is necessary. What is working for me now (after previously getting miserable, horrible results) is to do a test spray in the air to get the lacquer flowing out of the nozzle correctly and then proceed to laying down a layer that looks wet and self-levels, but isn't heavy enough to run or redistribute/collect on the surface. Good lighting to see whether the surface is wet and even is critical -- anything else and you might as well use blinders.

The can instructions are worth following. (Also see John Hall's posts on the rattle technique.) When enough of the solvent flashes off the film won't run and then I move on to another area. Accumulation around the nozzle vent will spit lacquer, so I keep an eye on that and keep it clean. When the can is 30% full I use the remainder for necks and use a full can to continue on with the body. I just started doing final sanding 6,000-8,000-12,000 grit in succession with water and have been really surprised how nice the final finish can be. I would really like to outsource this however. :-)

I out source most of my finish
it is well worth the $350 in my opinion

Some where, maybe StewMac Dan Erliwine Finishing book, said warm your rattlecan in warm water for 20 minutes before spraying. After reading all these fond postings of rattle can finish, I'm gonna blow $12 on a can and spray, sand, fill and finish a test board. Maybe I cut a guitar shape from birtch plywood.... I like to know what not to do, thanks!

So the only good options are nitro based?

Just pulled trigger on StewMac polishing set up with motor , shop stand and ultimate guitar vise.
I may be using rattle can for a while.