Suggested Finish for a First time builder?

[jbutler]

I've used the Target Coatings EM6000 water based laquer on all 4 of my builds so far. I've certainly had some finish challenges but I'm getting better as I go. I'm not sure its the easiest for a first time but feel if I can do it, most others can also. Ken C gave a very good tutorial in the tutorial section titled "Spraying and Buffing Target Coatings EM6000". Ken's finishes are as good as any I have seen.

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1113
John

[B. Howard]

Nitro is one of the easiest to apply and most forgiving finishes out there for guitars. That is one reason it has endured so long in this business despite it's being replaced in others decades ago. It is also very repair friendly for the average shop or novice luthier, water borne is not. It does however take longer to dry properly but IMHO that helps teach the lesson of patience and finishing.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Mike, I used spray cans for my first 3 guitars and they came out very nice.
I'd recommend for your first, if you don't know if you will continue building, to get this finishing kit from Stewart McDonald.

http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Su ... g_Kit.html

Everything you need for a nitro finish using spray cans. Price is not that bad considering everything is there.
Now if you plan on building many guitars, then you might want to consider purchasing a HVLP spray set up and buy the lacquer in gallon cans.

[B. Howard]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm a bit concerned about volatility of nitro. A friend of mine said I would need an explosion proof room if I used nitro, Is this true if I use the kit?

You will want to do it outside or in a well ventilated non-living space like a garage. Make sure there are no open sources of ignition if you use your garage.

[Kevin Sjostrand]

If you are spraying nitro lacquer in any form, you need the ambient temp to be no less than about 65 degrees. Even brushing lacquer needs a little warmth. :)
You might want to consider a shellac french polish. You can do that at your kitchen table, no vapors, non-toxic, very forgiving, can look fabulous.
You have a resident expert on FP on this forum, perhaps Brian can guide you.
You can also look for Robbie O'briens Tips Du Jour on french polishing, it will give you the basics on doing his version of the technique.

[B. Howard]

You will want to do it outside or in a well ventilated non-living space like a garage. Make sure there are no open sources of ignition if you use your garage.

This may sound dumb, but what would you consider open sources of ignition? I am having trouble finding a space because I live in upstate New York, and by the time I get to the finishing procedure it will be very cold. If I use a garage, I would have to use space heaters. Would these be considered an open source of ignition? I know some of them use a spark inside when you change their settings.

Technically anything that makes a spark or has the potential to, so even a light switch....Fume concentrations need to be pretty high for ignition to happen though.

Space heaters? In the direct vicinity while spraying definitely not. In the drying area, after fumes have cleared, you should be ok to use a small electric space heater. Just make sure there are no open flames like gas pilot lights etc. in the area.

[justrfb]

Hello.
I am going to throw in my suggestion that is both very easy and effectively fool proof. Tru-Oil. It is a gun stock oil that works very well and creates a beautiful, durable finish. I use it on my builds both acoustic and solid body. There are many threads here to read through for more information. I hope this helps...

Sincerely,
Rich

[JLT]

Hello.
I am going to throw in my suggestion that is both very easy and effectively fool proof. Tru-Oil. It is a gun stock oil that works very well and creates a beautiful, durable finish.

I second that. I use Tru-Oil for all my necks, and when the weather is too cold or rainy to spray lacquer in my unheated garage, I finish the body with Tru-Oil as well. I can hang the guitar inside the house without stinking up the place and distressing the spouse and the cats.

The trick with Tru-Oil is to have the surfaces absolutely smooth before you apply it, as it won't fill up micro-scratches the way lacquer or nitro will. And the coats you apply must be very thin. You put it on and then wipe almost all of it off, leaving the merest suggestion of a layer. You'll be very pleased with the results!

[ColestineGuitar]

I went with traditional French Polish on my first. I learned much about patience, starting over, and frustration. It took a hideously long time. But I am very happy with the results. I have decided to try a technique for using non-dewaxed shellac taught by Mr. Howard on my next guitar.

I'm not yet ready to explore the world of sprayed, buffed finishes. FP is really nice, and the process is sort of meditative (as well as non-toxic). I value the kind of skill it takes to apply FP, and hope to become good at it.

[phavriluk]

An answer to your question is in your immediate reach. I suggest, having just done it and gotten fine comments from both a longterm luthier and a critical guitar teacher, that Z-poxy filler coats, squeegeed on and sanded between followed by a padded coat , followed by sanded-between applications of Deft rattle can satin lacquer, turns up a mighty friendly finish. I'm thoroughly delighted with the results and I'm using the experience as teaching to do better on later jobs. I found the process straightforward and understandable. I think first finishes need to be attainable, and I think the easily-obtained materials I mentioned help in that regard. I don't pretend to offer insight or expertise, but I can show the work product of this process, and I'm pleased with results. I have a base to improve on, not a regret to be avoided. Later efforts will involve dedicated instrument finishes, but for the moment the hardware store and hobby store have served me well as sources of materials.