Burst with water-based finishes?

[Bruce Dow]

On my next projects I plan to try a burst on a quilted maple top.

I am looking for the "left foot, right foot" instructions for doing this with water-based lacquer. My hours of searching have only deepened my confusion.

Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions "from the wood up". (I am happy to "buy the book" if there is one recommended)

I am struggling to figure out what I need to do, and in what order.

"grain conditioner"?
"Pore filler"?
"hand-rubbed stain"? Water-based? Alcohol-based? Black? Amber? Both?
"sand back"
"seal coats"? WB? Shellac?
"sprayed burst"? Tinted EM 6000?
"bindings" (Mask or scrape)




I've only just jointed the Target Finishing Forum... I'll lurk there a bit before posting openly.

B.

[rgogo65]

Don't know if you are locked into your finish or not, but this guy seems to have it together..also seems like someone here did a bass and had some good pics of the finished product, can't remember if it was EM6000 OR?

Anyway...
This is a fairly good information of how it's done on maple with water based KTM-SV.
Good luck.
http://www.newenglandluthiers.org/conte ... inish.html

Ray

[Bruce Dow]

Thanks, Ray.

That is a valuable reference. (Did I mention that I plan to practice on a Grizzly mandolin kit?)

I did a little more searching, and remembered that Ken C. had laid out his step by step in this thread....

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=552

I think I found some of Ken's postings on the Target Coatings forum that I can study as well.

[naccoachbob]

Here's a video I saw for a sunburst finish.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAn ... x?id=30182
Hope it helps,
Bob

[Ken C]

Bruce,

I'm happy to help where I can. As you found, my process is largely documented. If you have specifics, post something here or send me a PM. Though I did practice some beforehand, the burst on the LP is my one and only burst to date. It's a real gem. The process I followed worked extremely well, and I would follow it again in a heartbeat. Watch the Fine Woodworking video of James Candino then try it on some scraps. I found it very easy to do, and the results are great if you are patient. As I was having issues with some of the wood along the binding edge taking the dye, I also had to shoot dark colors along the perimeter with my gun to get even coverage.

This brings up a good point, if you are going to apply the colors by hand, make sure the top is free and clear of any glue contamination or the dye will not be absorbed by the wood in those areas. My issue appeared to be glue in places where the maple was torn out during routing for binding. I didn't bind the guitar, and the glue ran so deep, I couldn't just sand it out. Fortunately the glue was right at the perimeter so shooting color mixed with a seal coat fixed it.

The one thing I have seen with bursts that I personally tried to avoid was a hard transition line and carrying the dark colors too far into the body. I want the color to go black right at the perimeter, not an inch or two in. The top of my LP was just too small to carry the dark colors too far in.

Good luck and let me know where I can be of help.

Ken

[Bruce Dow]

Ken.

I love the look of that burst.

thanks for all of that wisdom. I especially appreciate the part about the thin layer of solid colour out at the edges to cover some glue issues.

All of the guitars on this forum look perfect to me, and - bit by bit - I am picking up the tips and tricks that help them get that way