Possible Finish Option

[rgogo65]

To begin with, one of my problems is that I've developed an allergy to Nitro lacquer, some solvents, and of course some types of wood. This is really a problem for some folks.
I've used water based finishes, and they are OK...I probably just don't understand them. Then there is that Achilles Heel thing, it would seem folks are always looking for a finish that produces the desired results, with the least amount of hassle and effort and side effects and environmental concerns. Impossible? Maybe not.
I LIKE Tru-oil, I've used a lot of it on necks for myself and others, and it seems to produce a more than acceptable superior and highly desired finish for electric necks. And of course, many use it on their acoustics with great results. I know one who uses it exclusively on his Lap Steels made with highly exotic woods and he shoots it thinned 2-1 with mineral spirits and polishes it out to unbelievable finishes.
BUT, there's that some 'Ol problem, (Although not as bad) it contains petroleum products that create havoc with the body.
I stumbled on this product with an young guy who was looking for a finish for the mahogany neck and body of a custom build electric and I was stunned at the results.
His intention was to produce a "Satin" sheen and did so, but this stuff comes in a couple of different blends and ONE will take a high polish if that's what you choose to do.
So...here ya go...it's sold at Woodcraft stores and other outlets and of course on-line. it's a 19Th century recipe containing 100% solids and it contains NO petroleum products or solvents. It's a USDA food grade product safe for cutting boards, kids toys and furniture. NON-allergenic.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200723 ... -Pint.aspx

Check out the other blends shown...I'm currently experimenting with the "Varnish Oil" to see how it responds for ME. I'll try to keep anyone interested apprised of my results.

Allow me to lay out my application procedures so you can get a better idea of how I've apply this, and all my "Tru-Oil" finishes on necks so far with I believe, great success.

I prep my wood in the normal manner, I've found that this method doesn't require "Grain filling" of necks that I've done, which have been maple, which obviously doesn't NEED filling and mahogany. I was quite surprised at the results with the mahogany, but it my Tru-oil application has always filled the pores on necks and this product seemed to do the same with this application method.

I apply the product in very THIN coats with a PAPER COFFEE FILTER. Wiping on the product as evenly as possible taking care to not leave built-up areas along the edges or (In the case of maple fret boards, along the frets). If the filter is too wet, get a NEW one and dry the excess off the surface.

I then turn the neck (Electric in this case) upside down and allow to dry to the touch.

Throw away the coffee filters between coats and never re-use one, close the container tightly to avoid DRY particles entering the container or getting on the next CLEAN FILTER.

Apply the next coat and so on until desired depth is achieved .I have never had to sand between these coats with "Tru-oil" and the finish is flawless. In the case of the "Tru-oil" I like 8 coats on Maple and as much as 15 on mahogany or until the pores are filled. I've applied up to 4 coats in one day depending on the temp and humidity.
I allow the finish to dry for 3-4 days if I want a satin sheen, I then rub the surface down with a 3M 0000 imitation steel wool, and buff with clean denim and allow to fully cure another week.

With "Tried and True" I've allowed it to fully cure (At least a week) depending on the humidity of course, and then buff the satin sheen OR polish to a high gloss as you would with any other finish.
I'm still experimenting with the number of coats on this one, so far... the one satin neck (Mahogany) is at 8 and it's looking pretty good...and so far no sanding required.. We'll see...

This may not work for everyone, but so far, these finishes have worked for me...I look forward to trying them on larger areas and testing the waters.

Anyway it might be something some of you may want to experiment with yourself in one way or another. Happy Hunting!

(Oh by the way, I always use Ren-wax on my necks, and the REST of the guitar for that matter) :)
http://www.restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo.html

Ray

[tippie53]

Alergies can hit anyone at anytime . Solvents can cause serious issues . SOme woods can put you in the hospital so protect yourself. I do farm out most of my finish work more for time but it does that that stuff out of my shop and away from me.