Pore filling before binding

[Doublearon77]

Hi all,

I'm a long way from this but I was thinking last night, is there a reason why you couldn't porefill before you install the bindings. I'm useing light wood bindings on my guitar and it has rosewood back and sides. I was just worried about the pigment in the filling material might stain the wood bindings. I was just wondering if there was a reason you coulding do it before you installed the bindings.

Thanks Aaron

[Tony_in_NYC]

I am surprised nobody replied to this yet. I was hoping to see some good info!
I only see one reason for not pore filling before doing the bindings and that would be this:
After you install the bindings, you need to scrape or sand them flush with the rest if the body. This sanding could result in the removal of the pore filler in the areas adjacent to the binding which would leave you with a rough finish in those areas. But maybe not...one the pores are filled properly, you should not be able to remove the pore filler by sanding, so it could work.
There might also be adhesion issues with the glue to the pore filler, so my suggestion would be to pore fill before routing your binding channels. Then you will have fresh wood to glue to. Forgive me if you had thought of that already, but it seemed like something that should be mentioned.
As a total novice with only two builds under my belt, and a third underway, you should take my reply with a grain of salt. It should also be noted that I did not pore fill on either of my guitars.
There...I gave my 2 cents, and I bumped your thread back up on the "Active Topics" list. Go me.

[kencierp]

Ditto Tony's comment

There's plenty of clean up work to be done even if your binding channels are perfect - its best to treat pore filling as part of the "finishing" process. Step one "after" all the surfaces are sanded smooth. Google Guitar factory tours you'll see that some mask off the bindings (my recomendation) and also have scraping process to remove filler and stain from the bindings before top coating. Its really simple using a single edge razor blade. I think John Hall once mentioned that the scrapers at the Martin factory are made from piece of bandsaw blade that is sharpened to a double cutting edge. Or --- use Target or Crystallac clear high solids pore filler.

[Tony_in_NYC]

Ken,

I assume a clear pore filler will not pop the grain like a colored one will, correct or no?

[kencierp]

Actually to my eye just the opposite happens --- the clear lets the natural colors show through and results a deeper look to the final finish. However some interesting effects can be had with tinted pore fillers -- high contrast application are common on some top of the line furniture. Even Pore O Pac oil base leaves a bit of haze --- the water borne dark tinted fillers just "kill" the look of the wood and leave a very muddy, blotchy appearance.

[tippie53]

On plastic I do scrape off the filler and on the wood I plan usually to allow the stain to match the effect I want. Trying to fill then bind won't work as you are trying to mate 2 planes . The sides and the binding. Learn to scrap , it isn't hard. Martin uses the band saw blades and they have a burnished edge. That works very well

[DaveH]

I agree with Ken that filling should be considered part of the finishing process. I believe that there is too much going on with Binding & Purfling application and filling prior will only lead to less than desireable results. Remember that you're looking for near perfect surface, or you would'nt be applying filler in the first place.

A few things to consider:

1. You should apply a few coats of sealer prior to the application of any filler. Apply the sealer on the thinner side. Two-three coats of thin sealer is better than one thick coat. In difference to some recommendations, Sealer or top coats are not fillers! It's grossly inefficient as a filler and will only lead to other problems. The sealer will act as a barrier and limit the penetration of pigments in colored fillers. it also provides some protection when sanding after a colored filler is applied. It not only protects the wood, but likewise provides some additional protection on the bindings.

2. If you are using a oil based filler (i.e. Behlens Pore-O-Pak) you can also use a rag and paint thinner (mineral spirits) and carefully wipe the bindings after the filler is applied. I tightly wrap a small piece of cloth around my index finger and careully wipe off the bindings. This will remove the excess pigment from the binding. I may also use a dry rag to do the final wiping. It take just a few minutes. This works much better than scraping or sanding the bindings. While I have'nt tried it, a light solution of alcohol and water (50:50) could be used in the same manner to remove water based pigmented fillers.

As with most of finishing, keep it simple, but don't skip the necessary steps.