Hard shellac anyone?

[longbow]

Well I went and did it', ordered hard shellac from LMI. I hope it works like the normal stuff. For French polish that is, Way back Bill Cory was going to try it but I don't think I heard much more about it. Has anyone tried it ? any tips?... please post any ideas. Thanks David L.

[deadedith]

I am about to use it also. I got advice from Shawn at luthiers supply about the process he used; he got great results. If I can find that I will post it.

[longbow]

Thanks Dave, please do I heard you have to cut it at least 50/50, but thats about all I know. The review on LMI. said he buffed it with good results also..some people buff F.P. some do a alcohol rub, I'll have to try the buffing part.

[mjmeehan]

I don't know anything about the "normal stuff" but I have used hard shellac.
I use it as a sealer coat under tru-oil and it works very well. I thin it more than 50/50 though. More like 25/75. I've found this allows for an even application and longer open time before the shellac sets up, or the alcohol evaporates.

I have experimented with it as a brush on finish and wouldn't hesitate to use it as such.(I don't only because I've really fallen in love with the tru-oil finish) Hard Shellac went on and sanded well, and left a nice, hard, shiny surface.
As for applying it in the french polish method, maybe someone else here can chime in.

If you have some scrap play around with it, I do know that a little goes a long way, then post the results!!

[longbow]

Thanks for the info, the guitars I made with hand rubbed finish sound louder than the nitro ones. This stuff seems like the best of both worlds. We'll see....

[deadedith]

Here is the info I was given by Tracy at luthier suppliers. His instrument(s) turned out very well with the Hard Shellac.

Dave,
1. First I final sand to 320 grit using a very hard block(mdf 3"x4" works well) and fill all purfling gaps and make sure I have no scratches. Use naptha as a wipe before applying each grit to check for scratches.
2. I did pore fill, but not with ubeaut. I used zpoxy from LMI. It works so well, but I do let it sit for a few weeks before applying all the coats. The first coat goes on thick and I squeegee on, and wipe off with a thick blue paper towel. The next day I sand back to almost bare wood with 400 grit, then apply another coat the same way. Then I set it aside and wait for 2 weeks and sand again with 400 grit, and do a 3rd coat. Let dry 24 hours, then I sand again with 400 grit, then use a 50/50 DN Alcohol and epoxy mix and wipe on with a blue paper towel(wipe off any excess). After 24 hours it dries, and I sand VERY lightly with 600 grit. Now you are ready to apply ubeaut. By the way, the epoxy is not put on the top at all. In fact, you should put about 3 coats of shellac on the top before applying the pore filling to the back and sides.
3. Apply ubeaut with cheescloth first to build up the finish until it starts to stick.(it does not raise the grain, so you should wipe down the guitar with a damp rag at least twice before starting the finish, and sanding between wipe downs) You should be rubbing very lightly while doing this.
4. After you get enough build, it will start to stick and when that happens, place the cheesecloth in the linen pad and load the outside pad with shellac/alcohol mix. Start applying light straight strokes the length of the instrument. Do the back and sides one day, then do the top the next day, and keep alternating. At the end of the day, load the pad with only alcohol and do straight strokes to level the finish. You can use a little 600 grit sandpaper between coats if you get stuff in the finish.
5. When the pad starts to get sticky, apply more pressure to your stroke. Then reload the pad and start in the middle to left, middle to right alternating each time. Just keep doing this for about a week until it starts to get shiny. Once you feel there is enough build, then wait 2 weeks for it to dry and cure.
6. Then use micromesh 3200 grit to wet level sand using an eraser as a block and wrap the sandpaper around it. I put one drop of dish soap in a small container of water and dunk the eraser/sandpaper in the water and start sanding. Do small areas at a time. Every once in awhile I'll dry off the area with a paper towel and check to make sure the area has no shiny spots. The area should look flat with no shiny spots.
7. Then I use a product called Novus Plastic Polish #2. (http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-Plas ... B0000WUC7E) I only use #2. I use a cotton ball with a tiny drop on it to do a tiny area at a time. Just keep rubbing the area until it turns to a glass look. Be careful not to work one area too much, as shellac heats up easily and warps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Good luck!

Regards,

Tracy Leveque
Owner
Luthier Suppliers
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

[longbow]

Thank you, Thankyou, Thankyou, This is just what I wanted. I did this one alittle different, dry wall compound dye and filler, but the finish part I'll try the the way he has it. One thing, I noticed he did'nt use oil when it got sticky. You know I'm going to try that if only on a pc. of scrap. I hope others have read these posts, you always learn something on this site. I will buy some of the #2 polish, and let ya know how it went. ....Dave L....PS. hope my 1937 D-18 sounds like a monster.