Just sanded the back and sides of the RO from KMG, getting ready to pore fill but thought I'd naptha first and take a few pix.
DaveB
1/4 sawn red oak
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deadedith
1/4 sawn red oak
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David L
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Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
That is some gorgeous wood!
David L
David L
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johnnparchem
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Ken Hundley
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Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
Wow, that is some beautiful stuff!
Ken Hundley
Nocturnal Guitars
http://www.nocturnalguitars.com
So, my big brother was playing guitar and I figured I'd try it too.
- Stevie Ray Vaughan
Nocturnal Guitars
http://www.nocturnalguitars.com
So, my big brother was playing guitar and I figured I'd try it too.
- Stevie Ray Vaughan
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Kevin Sjostrand
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Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
Yeah Dave that is some striking wood, who would have thought that from oak. Touche!
Kevin
Kevin
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deadedith
Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
I was a little skeptical when Ken Cierp pitched it, but the man knows wood and I trusted him and am very pleased so far.
DaveB
DaveB
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Ken C
Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
That will be pretty sharp, Dave. Q/S oak has great flecking, and yours should look great under finish!
Ken
Ken
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deadedith
Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
Started pore filling. I'm using tru-oil on back and sides, U-beaut hard shellac for the top.
This morning I mixed some tru-oil about 50/50 with naptha, applied liberally with a foam brush, and sanded until a slurry was formed, 220 grit, until it started to dry out; then I wiped of the "schmutz" with a paper towel and moved on to the next area. This way I am sealing and pore filling at the same time, as well as sanding. And of course the pore fill is thus a perfect match to the wood.
I really like the way that even this spitcoat brings out the contrast between the back and sides and the bloodwood binding/end wedge.
I will do one more 220 grit/50-50 mix coat and that should fill the pores very well. One benefit of using the naptha is that the coats go on very thin and dry very quickly. I can do many coats in a day, depending on humidity.
I will post again when I've built up some coats. I will also do this on the headstock and the neck.
DaveB
This morning I mixed some tru-oil about 50/50 with naptha, applied liberally with a foam brush, and sanded until a slurry was formed, 220 grit, until it started to dry out; then I wiped of the "schmutz" with a paper towel and moved on to the next area. This way I am sealing and pore filling at the same time, as well as sanding. And of course the pore fill is thus a perfect match to the wood.
I really like the way that even this spitcoat brings out the contrast between the back and sides and the bloodwood binding/end wedge.
I will do one more 220 grit/50-50 mix coat and that should fill the pores very well. One benefit of using the naptha is that the coats go on very thin and dry very quickly. I can do many coats in a day, depending on humidity.
I will post again when I've built up some coats. I will also do this on the headstock and the neck.
DaveB
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deadedith
Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
2 pix - the neck and headstock.
After sanding and 1 coat of tru-oil. Wood LOVES tru-oil. The mahogany neck just came alive, and the bloodwood gets richer with more coats.
The headstock pic is not good, I should have it done tomorrow and will post again.
BTW the red oak is really starting to get richer looking.
DaveB
After sanding and 1 coat of tru-oil. Wood LOVES tru-oil. The mahogany neck just came alive, and the bloodwood gets richer with more coats.
The headstock pic is not good, I should have it done tomorrow and will post again.
BTW the red oak is really starting to get richer looking.
DaveB
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Tony_in_NYC
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Re: 1/4 sawn red oak
I have two words for you: Yow and Za. I will let you put them together and figure out what I am thinking.