Finishing recommendations for a newbie?

[tippie53]

I use 220 on all finishes and I agree with Ken's post not to mix and match. Finish is all about PREP . One point I have to STRESS in reality do not expect finishing to be a few hours. Expect to invest a fair amount of time. Between the sanding , preping, it all takes time . My first few guitars suffered as I treated them like I was doing cabinets .
I spend at least 3 to 4 days on finishing . Next to the material PATIENCE is the most valuable asset in the process.

[MKlee]

Thanks everybody for the reply's and input ... I've decided to go with the Behlen's simply b/c it seems everybody is in agreement that it's a quality product and they have very good, specific instructions.

Now a question on the Pore-O-Pac ... does natural mean it will dry clear and the wood will have a "natural" tone when all is done or do I need to tint it. Most things I have read say "tint as desired" but I'm rally just looking for the natural wood tones to show through. If tinting, do you use a different tint for the neck? My guitar is Indian Rosewood on the sides and a mahogany neck.

KenCierp ... you recommended not staining the guitar, which I didn't plan to do - but would you also make this recommendation for the mahogany neck? It seems most tend to stain the necks - thoughts?

Thanks guys ... I plan to start pore filling tonight ... hopefully.

Mark

[MKlee]

Oops, one more question:

Is there a secret for keeping the ivoroid binding a clean white? I've scraped the finish for the most part but when I do a final sand it seems to "scratch" up the binding making it look dirty. Is there something I'm doing wrong or should do to keep these clean?

[deadedith]

MKlee said: it seems everybody is in agreement.

We simply cannot have that type of statement on this Forum!! I disagree! Just on principle! :-)

I'm kidding of course. I'm sure the Behlen will work fine to the degree you follow the instructions. Good luck.
DaveB

[Kevin Sjostrand]

Mark,
Tape off the binding while you pore fill, then when you sand back, don't sand the binding. When the sanding is done and you are level, lightly scrape the binding with a razor blade to a smooth ,clean finish...then don't sand them after that.

I have to say, I have not done this myself, as I use only wood bindings, but it makes complete sense and others have handled it that way......

Kevin

[DaveH]

Hopefully a couple of simple suggestions;

1. Color of the pore filler: Take a look at what you are trying to reproduce. Typically the pores of most filled surface are darker than the parent wood. Find our what color the pores are and simply use that color. Natural pore fillers, especially pore-o-pak are a light brown or beige. That's probably not what you want. McFaddens use to make a Rosewood filler which was a dark red-brown. Typical for Rosewood. You can look on the Behlens Website (UK) and probably find a color chart. Get close but don't sweat the details.

2. Pore Filler on the Binding: Make sure to Seal the bare wood with a sealer. I use Behlens Vinyl Sealer, but in a pinch you can use thinned down lacquer. Apply light coats to seal the surface. I said "light coats" not "dry coats". You are better off applying nice wet coats of the sealer or lacquer, but reduced at a higher rate. This could even be a 75% reduction with regular lacquer. Apply 2-4 coats (more if thinned). This provides a barrier of protection and inhibits the filler from adhering to the surface. After I have applied the dark filler I take a rag, tighly wrapped around my finger and clean off the binding. This will remove the heavily pigmented pore filler from the binding. Just take some care and effort and you will remove the pigment/filler from the binding. It's really quite easy.

3. As mentioned earier, experiment on some scraps of wood. Find of piece of scrap wood (i.e. Rosewood) and apply the entire process. If possible, find a reasonably sized piece of scrap, say 5" x 8" to experiment on. As I've told many, experiment on your scrap and not your work piece (guitar). I've also said that the best time to experiment with finishing is not when you are working on a project - there are too many temptations. Look at the sample as a project within itself. If you approach finishing this way it will be enjoyable and much less intimidating.

[Tony_in_NYC]

I might be a bit late to the party here, but I brushed on Deft Semigloss Brushing lacquer on both of my guitars. Here is a link to my flickr page with photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49539199@N ... 061089994/

Unfortunately, I am at work, and they have restricted access to Flickr. Probably because of all of the terrorist activity there. Or maybe its the hard core porn. Or the pictures of people's cats. Not sure. In any event, I cant simply post pics, I have to post that link.
Again, that finish is semi gloss, but I think it got a little glossier than "semi" when it was done. I did not think the sanding and buffing was bad at all, but I might have been thinking it was going to take me three weeks of sanding based on what some people had said about brushed finishes. Took me a couple of days sand it out and then buff working only at night after my son went to bed.
Good luck with whatever finish you choose. Just be patient, and like others have said, practice on scrap first!

[David L]

+1 for posting pictures of cats, I know, I know, another thread, couldn't resist!

David L

[MKlee]

Hey guys, thanks for all of the comments/recommendations. I decided to go with the Behlen's process and have just finished the pore filling (4 coats). As most have said, it didn't work great but I have MOST of the pores filled. Anxious to start spraying. I was planning to start this weekend but looks like rain all weekend in Atlanta, so I may hold off.

Happy with the results so far.

Mark

[DaveH]

A couple of recommendations:

1. You may want to get some Behlens Retarder. I know it sort of stinks that you have to but a pint and use only a little, but it will may a huge difference when you are spraying in higher humidity. Read the instructions as you only use a small amount. I spray in my garage and then bring the work inside almost immediately (down in my shop in the basement). With the retarder I find the finish flows a little better and results in a slightly higher gloss.

2. As you found, it takes lots of applications of the pore filler and still leaves slight depressions. I usually build many coats on the guitar before block/wet sanding. I typically shoot double coats and apply over three different spraying sessions per day. You may want to apply build coats over two or three days and then let the work sit for at least a few days to cure a little. I then do a very thorough wet sanding with 400 grit wet/dry paper. You will end up removing a number of coats but you will also start to level the surface and hopefully eliminate the pores. You can then apply a number of thinner "flow" coats to further build the finish and allow for the final wet sanding. You will want to leave the finish cure for at least 5-7 days (some recommend longer depending on drying conditions) before final wet sanding with 600-1000-1500 or greater wet/dry paper. As you do this just remember that lacquer does not have a lot of solids and is a poor (not pore) filler. Ultimately you have to cut/sand back much of the finish to level.