1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Hi guys,

I couldn't resist this old archtop for obvious reasons. I new it was a semi trainwreck, but well worth restoring. This much is certain:

It's solid wood. Bookmatched spruce top, back and sides are solid flame maple (and I mean FLAME!). The figure is outstanding.

It appears to be carved, top and back.

It has a dovetail neck.

I'm sure that the finish is shellac rather than nitro.

Now for the weirdness.

There's an old tag that's crumbling. It says:

Kasuga Musical Instrument company
Nagoya, Japan
Harmony Guitar

Made in Japan

From my research, the only Harmony made in Japan was in the 80's and they were electric guitars. When Harmony went out of business, Global something or other bought the name in '76. This guitar is a lot older than this, 100%.

Plus, the style of f holes suggest a Euro Import to Japan, either from Salvadore Ibanez (the actual, not the name) or an Italian who introduced mandolins to Japan, and imported archtops, by the name of Raffael Calace. I'm leaning towards a Calace, because of the Florintine inlay, f hole, and headstock.

If it was made in Japan, it'll be before wwii. I DID find 1 other archtop, on a Japanese auction site, with the same tag, except it said, "made in Occupied Japan". The f holes were similar, but no inlay, the headstock was different, the whole guitar was just a typical sunburst.

So, I have an Enigma.

Oh, there was also one of those little return address labels that someone stuck just inside of the f hole, on the top. It had a name and address of a person out of Chicago. I found his current address, after finding him in the 1940 Census. He's almost 90.

So, aside from comments in general, this is my quandary. Do I keep the finish as is, or strip it and bring out this natural flame maple.

I ask because there are 2 complete cracks in the back, so I basically have a 3 piece back that I'll be fixing right. I'll be undoing some other funky repairs. There's a crack by 1 f hole on the top. The heel was broken and the repair is funky, so I'll take care of that.

The bracing is too elegant to be a Chicago harmony. It's well sanded and shaped.

I got the history of the Kasuga company. They did have a separate facility, which I think you could compare to a Custom Shop here stateside.

So, opinions on the finish? They tried to make this fantastic flame look like curly maple. I like the look all right, but I would love to bring out the original flame, which is on the sides too.

What would you Do? I've learned to be minimalistic with restorations, trying to preserve what's there. But with this guitar, I'm not sure. How much would it affect the value if I refinish?

Pictures to come of the restoration.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
ruby@magpage.com
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Location: Chestertown Maryland

Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Diane - it doe not appear that it has much monetary so would not be cost effective to spend a lot of time on - except that it would be fun. With fun as a guiding principle, a refinish would make it look great. Nice find
Ed M
RHayes
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Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:06 pm

Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by RHayes »

Would it be possible to re-activate the existing spirit varnish with alcohol/oil as in french polish and add more finish as needed? Is the flame in the wood or just applied? Can't tell from the photo.
Stray Feathers
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Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by Stray Feathers »

Diane, what an interesting find. (Where do you find these things?!) A couple of thoughts: First, could you contact Gruhn or someone like that just in case it is an Antiques Roadshow type of find? (And you didn't say if there is any story about the owner whose name was inside the guitar?) Second, if not, I would vote for a quality restoration. I have a friend whose business is called "Antique Addict". But he says he does not do conservation work on antiques; he just restores good old pieces to give them new beauty and life. And I think that philosophy is just as valid as museum-type work. Bruce W.
jread
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Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by jread »

I say go w/ your gut we can tell you want to strip it. Unless it's a complete museum piece. But you plan to play it, I think that finish if fair game. I say send it to Diane's guitar day-spa and make her dazzle.
tippie53
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Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by tippie53 »

shellac can be reamalgamated so no strip
call me about this process ,
easy peasy japaneasy
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
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MaineGeezer
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Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by MaineGeezer »

I'd be inclined to try to keep the original finish to preserve the "old" appearance. If you later decide you don't like it, you can always refinish it.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Hi guys,

I just had an extensive shoulder reconstruction done yesterday, so you won't see any work for quite some time.

Love the comments!

As you all know, I French polish most of my builds, unless someone requests nitro. I've already worked a small area, and yes, it'll clean up nicely. The "curl" I'm relatively sure, was done by the builder, and isn't natural figure. The flame is. The flame is absolutely beautiful. It's kind of a shame to add the "curl" on top.
I'm inclined to just work and clean the original finish. You'd be shocked at the shear grunge taken off with naphtha! The skin acids have damaged some of the shellac, but it's easily fixable. I certainly have time on my hands to consider what to do with it.

When I'm physically back to it, I'll concentrate on the 3 piece break in the back. There's actually a 1/8" gap between pieces, which someone filled with glue. I doubt they'll come back together perfectly. I'll get it close with hydration. The top crack by the right f hole will come together. I think it was caused by the pickguard support, which I'll change.

Needless to say, the email address that I found for the name on the top, isn't in use anymore, a Netscape address (is that even in operation anymore? Lol). I have a last known address for this gentleman. I may write a snailmail letter addressed to him, or current family member, explaining what I found and requesting information. It would be cool to get info on it.

It seems to be a one off. I can't figure out that "Harmony Guitar" on the label. I found 1 other archtop with the same label, made in Occupied Japan, with a much more common burst, no inlay and with celluloid markers (the fret markers are mop on mine). I'm sure this is a lot older. I've thoroughly researched Harmony, it's history, brands, etc. There's no way this guitar is post mid 70s. It's certainly not 80s when Harmony was made in the Middle East.

This guitar is old, very well-built, with very choice woods. I'm leaning towards a Calace build, the Italian Euro Japan exporter. The florentine inlay (thankfully, in perfect shape) screams Calace. I've seen a couple of rare examples of his work and it's right up his alley.

The Antique Roadshow is a VERY interesting idea. I'll see how they schedule. Hopefully they'll come to West Virginia or Ohio.

I will probably have to replace the fretboard though. It's broken on the extension, not all the way through. It broke the depth of the slots. If I replace it, I'll remove the original mop fretmarkers for reuse.

To answer a question, I troll ebay, Reverb, and Shop goodwill constantly. I've seen a lot of guitars worth considerably more than asking price. You have to find them freshly listed, and don't be shy about contacting the sellers about negotiating a price, even if they're up for bid, or if there's no "best offer" listed. Message them. Dont just watch.

I got this guitar for $350 with shipping. He told me he had higher offers, which I totally believe. He sold it to me because my intention is to restore it, properly. I sent photos of my past restorations. I also told him that it is my birthday present (which is the truth. Lol !) I'm staying in touch with him so he can see it.

So, you have to watch closely and make contact. The worst that can happen is a "no", and you've lost nothing.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
ruby@magpage.com
Posts: 1564
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Location: Chestertown Maryland

Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Great story Diane - well done
Ed M
RHayes
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2020 8:06 pm

Re: 1930 something archtop restoration (and question)

Post by RHayes »

Hopefully when you least expect it, you get some meaningful response from your snail mail and may you have a speedy return to your restoration.
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