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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:22 am 
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The patch came out pretty well. A bit of dark dye will make it less obvious.

I stripped the finish on the back.

My latest thought, subject to change without notice, is to leave the patch as-is and not put an inlay over it.

I also repaired the cracked back brace and glued it on. That was nice, as it was already shaped to the correct form and curvature.


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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Posts: 5420
Location: Hegins, Pa
Nice pictures I am sure you are having a great time getting this old girl back up to pretty again.

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John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
Board of Directors of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com


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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:54 am 
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Latest thought is to replace the neck block in the body with a bigger one. If you look at download/file.php?id=8639&t=1 you'll note that the current block is fairly small and may be part of the reason the top split beside the fingerboard, seen here download/file.php?id=8573&t=1

I should be able to add about an inch to the thickness of the block with no problem, and hopefully when I take out the old block I'll be able to close up the crack in the top before gluing in the new larger block.

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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 11:21 am 
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Posts: 1313
You did a good job on the patch. A larger neck block certainly seems logical. I've seen a lot of cracks to both sides of the fretboard in old guitars. Another solution would be to glue a thin layer of bracing wood on the new top, much like a classical guitar soundhole brace/reinforcement. I did this when I replaced the top on the Silvertone project guitar. I was going to do it on the classical guitar, but there is a nice 3" wide extension to the neck block, that extends almost to the top transverse brace. It the fretboard and surrounding top is supported nicely.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:08 pm 
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I finally went with a mortise and tenon style joint held by bolts (and maybe glue). It's a nice fit and seems very solid. The bolts screw into threaded inserts embedded in the neck. I hope my understanding of the required geometry is correct!

Oh -- the hole down through the top is so I could put a bolt through, for convenience in holding the body while I worked on it. The hole will get covered by the fingerboard and be invisible.


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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 8:57 am 
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Location: Hegins, Pa
these cracks along the fretboard are often from the different shrinkage rate of the fretboard and top. I seldom see them on Gibsons but gibson only uses a small spot of glue on the extension

Your mano is coming along nicely

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John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
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Board of Directors of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 3:08 pm 
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I decided to try a couple of 1/8" x 3/8" carbon fiber strips for neck reinforcement. This morning I cut the channels. The strips are a nice snug fit and extend into the headstock area to reinforce the neck-to-headstock transition. The ends will get covered by the head cap.

But what should I glue them in with? I had planned on using epoxy, but I'm concerned that the fit is too snug for epoxy to work well. What about water-thin CA glue? It would wick into the joints (one hopes) and work pretty well ....would it?

Any thoughts?


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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 4:35 pm 
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Today I put ivoroid binding on the fingerboard and colored the patch on the back using potassium dichromate. I guess it's not really a dye. It reacts with the wood chemically to darken it. Except for the grain difference, the patch now "disappears" pretty well.


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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.


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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 5:21 pm 
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It looks great Steve.


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 Post subject: Re: Regal mandolin
PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 8:51 pm 
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It's been a while.... I resurrected this project a few days ago when I got the idea of programming the CNC router a friend of mine loaned me a while ago to cut the pockets for the fingerboard inlays. I have proved to my satisfaction that my eyesight isn't good enough to do the cutouts freehand. After an untold number of test cuts and program tweaks I was able to get decent results for the two simple inlay shapes I used. Unless I can figure out a faster way to generate the CNC program for an arbitrary inlay shape, it will never be particularly practical. I do it only because the results of my hand-cut inlaying is so egregiously bad.

I'm also installing the frets, which occasioned the construction of a fret bender. It is crude beyond belief, but it worked. At some point I may take the time to make a decent one.

So! Once I get the frets in I'll install the neck, glue on the fingerboard, put the back on, apply a finish, add tuners, tailpiece, nut, bridge, strings...and hope it sounds like something. It would also be nice if I learned to play it at least a little.


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Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects. -- Will Rogers
There are lots of people who mistake their imagination for their memory. - Josh Billings
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.


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