Incoming Learning Experience

[Diane Kauffmds]

I took the suggestion of a couple of members and I've found a guitar that needs some real work.

This 1959 (?) Silvertone acoustic has a lot of issues, but I hope potential. I hope by working on her, that I get a feel for what is needed to build a guitar. As you can see, a lot of work is needed. I have a total of $26 invested, but the guitar has specific problems that I was hoping to find, so if I learn something, it's money well spent. If I end up with a decent "USA Made" beater guitar, than it's a bonus.

Here the photos posted on Ebay:

[Ben-Had]

What were the issues? Any loose braces? Are you going to remove the back, repair inside and re-glue? Details, details!

[Diane Kauffmds]

What were the issues? Any loose braces? Are you going to remove the back, repair inside and re-glue? Details, details!

Haha!

This is the description on Ebay:

"
This is a vibrant vintage Silvertone guitar that needs some TLC and some repair.
The remnants of a square sticker on the front. I did not want to remove it and mess up the finish.
There is some separation on the back and the top. The back is worse but the separation is clean and this could easily be repaired and the guitar refurbished. There is one small crack near the soundhole but only the top layer, it does not go all the way through. Not sure if this is original but the bridge is glued then bolted to the top. The pick guard has tiny screws holding it to the body but is glued as well. There is a tuning peg nut missing. There is considerable wear on the neck and fret board, as this was probably played quite a bit.
The neck looks solid and straight, not sure how this would be with a set of strings on it.
Measures 36" long and is 13.25" wide.
The head stock is labeled on the back "Model No. 319-12059 Made in USA"
This guitar is being sold in "AS IS" condition."

This is what I plan (of course, things will change once I get it and inspect it)

I know that Silvertone (Harmony) screwed the pick guards and bridges to the guitars, so I know that this wasn't done after market.

2. I'm sure that the bridge has pulled up and all of the separation is caused by being dried out, so first I will put the guitar into a case with wet sponges inside of 2 plastic soap boxes with holes drilled in the top. I'll check it daily to see how the top and back straightens out before going further. (I did this with my step-daughter"s guitar; it worked great)

3. I'll remove the top, so I can inspect the bracing; I want to see how it's put together. I'll address any bracing issues at that time.

4. I'll have to see how the neck looks once I get the guitar.

5. I'm definitely replacing the fretboard. I'm going to get a blank and go from there. I'll be putting a radius of 12" on the fretboard. I'm making the radius sander today. Of course, all of the associated fretting, etc. will have to be done.

6. I'll probably put some new tuners on it.

7. I'll refinish the guitar, using shellac and french polish (great way to learn).

I know all of this sounds extreme for this guitar, but I bought it to learn all these things. I'll take it one step at a time. My only worry is if the neck is twisted, or in some way unusable. Even if I replace the top, it's worth the experience. Stewmac has this size of Western Red Cedar tops for $17.

It's not the intrinsic value of the guitar that is going to determine how far I go; the knowledge that I'll gain is priceless to me.

[JLT]

You go, girl!

As for the neck, if it's only slightly twisted, you might be able to devise a jig to take the twist out, or you could shape a fretboard so that one side has an identical twist and the other side is flat. If it's really twisted, you might hold off on that you take the top off and see how the neck is connected to the body. Cheap guitars of that vintage may not have had dovetail joints, instead using a tenon-and dowel or a "Spanish heel" like your classical guitars had. Either way, it is possible to convert it to a bolt-on neck.

You can buy those little plastic tuning machine caps separately, but once you get the guitar, you might want to see if machines of identical dimensions can be purchased. If they can't, you'd probably want to replace all six caps so they look the same, at least. I think there's a video on the Stew-Mac site that tells you how to do this.

[Diane Kauffmds]

You go, girl!

As for the neck, if it's only slightly twisted, you might be able to devise a jig to take the twist out, or you could shape a fretboard so that one side has an identical twist and the other side is flat. If it's really twisted, you might hold off on that you take the top off and see how the neck is connected to the body. Cheap guitars of that vintage may not have had dovetail joints, instead using a tenon-and dowel or a "Spanish heel" like your classical guitars had. Either way, it is possible to convert it to a bolt-on neck.

You can buy those little plastic tuning machine caps separately, but once you get the guitar, you might want to see if machines of identical dimensions can be purchased. If they can't, you'd probably want to replace all six caps so they look the same, at least. I think there's a video on the Stew-Mac site that tells you how to do this.

I figure the neck is probably salvageable; I would think if it was really twisted, the seller would see it. Since I'm replacing the fretboard, I wonder if a generic truss road couldn't be installed. I guess that'll be a question to post once I get into her.

I'm really hoping for a great little travel guitar on top of the education.