Another project in the shop.

[watergunn]

Very nice.

How do you set up to inlay pearl on the bridge. Is there a trick to doing the inlay?

[Darryl Young]

Looking good John!

I'll also add y thanks for posting these type threads......very informative and fun to watch.

[tippie53]

I used to have a block that had a rail that I could locate the inlay base on. After a few hundred I just do them but this would make a good video. Next time Glenn pops in I will do one so you can see that process.

[watergunn]

Excellent.

Thanks for all you for us wanna be's out here!

[Diane Kauffmds]

Wow, what a beautiful renovation!

[tippie53]

well it finally got finished the top was replaced and the damage repaired . The top actually did go through the back. The kerfing breakage was clean and that allowed a good repair
here is the finished product . I did make a new pickguard but I could use the old bridge. Sounds stellar. We also colored the top to look like the old one

[ruby@magpage.com]

John
Earlier in the thread you said you had to reset the top geometry. Can you describe what measurements you might take and how you go from there?

Ed MInch

[tippie53]

As a guitar ages and stresses take hold the neck block will rotate causing the action to change. So in this case, with the top off I could set the neck block back to its original position.

I cover it in this video but to make it sweet , once the rim is ready for the top you want to see about a 1/4 in to 3/8 rise to the tail block.

I do this using the flat of the radius dish and pushing down on the neck block. You can do this also by placing the rim top down on a table and push the neck block down . you can see the rise on the tail block off the table.

also this link may help
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6174&hilit=getting+the+neck

hope this helps , if not let me know

[ruby@magpage.com]

It does, John. One more thing - I have to replace the back on a guitar, and if I distort the body just a bit I can avoid a reset - how would I do this to make sure action is right?

This is what I am thinking:

1 )With a straight edge, distort the body so the flat fretboard with new frets so the straight edge just hits the top of the new bridge.

2) devise a mold that will hod the body in that shape - maybe just a few wedges in a different mold.

3) Using spool clamps, clamp the new back in place.

4) Cross fingers.

Ed

[tippie53]

that should get you close.
In the old days we called this slipping the back.. You can do this with 2 dowels that go from the neck block to tail block . You can also use a threaded rod through the strap pin hole . Instead of a mold you can use a strap clamp. Once you have the stop point you should be golden.
All you are doing is to flex the neck to establish neck geometry.