New member in TX

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TXFlatSix
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:30 pm

New member in TX

Post by TXFlatSix »

Hello from Texas. I stumbled across this site in the pursuit of information to assist in the build of a Martin kit I purchased from someone else who started it then gave up and passed it on to me. It's the all mahogany dread and soundboard braces are already installed. I do have a form I purchased. Wish me luck!

I have some skills and tools acquired in 50+ years but by no means an expert.

Dave
tippie53
Posts: 7011
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Location: Hegins, Pa
Contact:

Re: New member in TX

Post by tippie53 »

don't be afraid to ask questions you are not alone. We all had to start sometime.
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
TXFlatSix
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:30 pm

Re: New member in TX

Post by TXFlatSix »

Thanks John.

A couple issues I am contemplating.

1. There is no rosette or routing for the rosette. However there is a soundhole already. I would prefer to be able to route out the rosette channel before the soundhole is cut but its too late for that. I think I can use my dremel with a guide.

2. The neck has a nick/gouge in the side right where it meets the fretboard. Not big, just between 1/32" and 1/16" but over an inch long. If I sand it down then the fretboard won't match up with the neck. So I am thinking of filling it somehow then sanding smooth to match the fretboard.

Dave
tippie53
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Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Location: Hegins, Pa
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Re: New member in TX

Post by tippie53 »

if you want to make a rosette you can. With the dremel tool cut a circle that fits the sound hole snug but not too tight. Tape it in place and then you can carefully route a rosette channel
Make it simple but you can do it

I would make a stick and tape it inside the guitar maybe 2 so you can have a little support for the filler
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Danl8
Posts: 733
Joined: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:50 am
Location: Chadds Ford, PA

Re: New member in TX

Post by Danl8 »

I did exactly what John Hall suggests but glued the center disc on the plywood. I did it to add some pearl and it worked ok.

-d.
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TXFlatSix
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:30 pm

Re: New member in TX

Post by TXFlatSix »

Thanks That jig looks like it would do the trick.

Dave
TXFlatSix
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:30 pm

Re: New member in TX

Post by TXFlatSix »

A little update on the progress thus far.

As a reminder this Martin kit I purchased had been started by someone else then abandoned. The bracing on the front was already mostly done. Bracing on the back was missing so I had to get that. The trussrod was actually one for an electric guitar and too long so I ordered a new one.

I managed to make a jig for routing out for a rosette and it worked out pretty good I think. Managed to close the box up as well and started working on fitting the neck after watching John's dovetail joint videos on the Tube. The kit didn't have any binding or purfling so I got some rosewood and bent it myself with a aluminum pipe and propane torch. That was a fun learning experience and not as difficult as I anticipated.

I will post some pictures.

2 questions if you can help.

1. When I installed the bindings (actually kinda stressful for me) I am pretty pleased with the outcome except for where the binding meets at the tail block. If the pictures post you can see it doesn't line up perfectly and it bothers me. I used Tightbond original to glue in the bindings and purfling. Can I somehow loosen the glue on a bit of the tail portion to line up those bindings better?

2. The neck...well the neck that came with this kit had a good size gash in the side. I thought I would just use some mahogany wood filler to fill it, which I did. But I am not happy with the result. Again, I will try and post a picture. What is the best way to fix this? Or should I just get another neck? I thought about drafting on some new mahogany and that might work, or it might still look bad. I'm not sure what direction to go with the neck.

Thanks for all your help.

Dave

Edit: The pictures look odd because of the perspective. I will do better next time. Also, I forgot to mention that when doing the back strip I messed up and that's why you see multiple back strips. Oh well, I don't think it looks too bad in person.
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Last edited by TXFlatSix on Mon May 01, 2017 5:18 pm, edited 3 times in total.
TXFlatSix
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:30 pm

Re: New member in TX

Post by TXFlatSix »

Additional picture of my neck repair :shock:

Also better picture of the body
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Diane Kauffmds
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: New member in TX

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Titebond original is easily loosened with water or steam. Wood binding can be unglued using steam. I had to redo the binding on my first project guitar and I used an old clothes iron to unglue it. Now, I would use a 100% cotton cloth or a couple of wet paper towels, cover the spot and use a cheap soldering iron to steam it. Just keep rubbing over the area and you'll see the steam. That will give you the control that you need to loosen it.

Plastic however is a different animal. Titebond will eventually soften with water, so I'm assuming that using a wet cloth over the area, will loosen the binding.

I've filled shallow areas by putting CA glue into the gouge then filling with wood dust. It could take more than one application, but I think that will take care of the gouge nicely for you.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
TXFlatSix
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:30 pm

Re: New member in TX

Post by TXFlatSix »

Thanks Dianne.

I think I will order one of those small handheld steamers and see if that will work.

Dave
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