clamping top-bottom in a mold
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
I'm on #9 and have never felt the need for a go-bar deck. I do a lot of woodworking other than guitars so I have plenty (too many?) small F-style clamps and have settled on trimming my mold so that the throat size of the clamps allows them to contact the body when it's in the mold. I use a halo on top and another taped to the lower surface. Will be exploring the bedspring clamp system
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Ed M
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
I do like the concept of just clamping her down in the mold! May just start stockpiling clamps.
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
In my picture just above, the 2 with the 2-tone blue handles are Harbor Freight. They are fine clamps and we even use them on a tall ship I volunteer on as a carpenter and we rarely break one. They should last forever in a small shop. They go on sale at $2.99 if I recall, a little more for those longer than the 6 inchers needed.
Ed M
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
I agree with Ed. The HF F clamps work great for the price. They've got 6" to 3'. The plastic ratcheting ones are c**p, at least the old ones I've had. Most have broken, only have a couple left and I avoid using them. I also use a bunch of the small colorful spring clamps for liner clamping and purfling/binding gluing (instead of clothespins). Also I've used the deep throat u clamps as an alternative to the Fox bridge clamps.
Carl
Carl
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
Diane- I'm always interested in the evolution and history of lutherie tools. Where did you get the name "halo system" and who did you learn about the spring clamps from? I learned about those clamps from a builder, Davd Gomes, here in Hawaii about 35 years ago. Ocassionally I'll see a guitar with some feature that I learned from a specific builder or see certain tools in a builder's shop that let me know that builder and I have a history that unknowingly crossed somewhere. It is really interesting.--Bob
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
that Halo is something I may have showed Dianne at class. I use that alot. I made mine from Masonite as the smooth and textured side works great.
If I have a hard radius I use a pad under that. I like that you don't need a bucket of pads for go bar rods. I love to see the different ways people use to accomplish a similar task. There really is no one way better than another find what works best for you.
If I have a hard radius I use a pad under that. I like that you don't need a bucket of pads for go bar rods. I love to see the different ways people use to accomplish a similar task. There really is no one way better than another find what works best for you.
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com
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Re: clamping top-bottom in a mold
I make my halos out of 1/4 plywood in 2 layers Titebonded together with staggered seams. Very little waste. I have 2 sizes that work for everything I have done from 12-3/4" to 16" lower bout.
And just last night I glued a bridge with my $4.99 Harbor Freight deep throat clamps on my homemade bridge clamp (that needs a repair)
Ed
And just last night I glued a bridge with my $4.99 Harbor Freight deep throat clamps on my homemade bridge clamp (that needs a repair)
Ed
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Ed M