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I have some pre-made rosette that I'd like to use.

What is your favorite method for cutting rosette slots?
How snug to you want the fit for the rosette?
Does the technique change if the top wood is spruce, cedar, or redwood?
What would you recommend for practice materials since I don't want my first attempt to be on the actual sound?

i'm new but read up on several ways to do this including the cheap flywheel on drill bit circle cutter on the Martin guitar makers gear page. I've seen forum members use a compass and tiny planes and chisels.

I chose this tool set. I already had the dremel base so this would be pricey if getting all 3 at once. I use the dremel/base for inlay work too and my new saddle slot jig. I got several done without any issues though. The spiral downcut bits are important too. It is a fun and easy step with this. Here you can see a scrap on the peg and I made a practice cut to check depth and radius and fit. I'd cut the whole thing dry into scrap similar to your top if I were you. I made a mistake of not doing that on my 1st one. I had the ribbon type and thought, well, it fits in some so will go all the way around. Nope. Check the entire thing before getting the glue out. I taped my rosette into place dry, then added thin CA glue in a tiny dropper and it wicks in and is good then scrape but give that CA way longer than it needs so those ribbons don't pull out. They won't if it is cured.

Here’s my home made circle cutter. It has the recent addition of a fine adjustment wheel. I use a downcut spiral bit and for me, the tighter the better.

I followed Chris Paulick on YouTube and made a copy of his 'precision router base'. It's worked just fine on the 5 rosettes I've routed with the help of the tool. Very pleased.

Remember that using CA for rosette attachment or binding attachment to spruce tops require sealing with shellac to prevent permanent yellow stains in the end grain. DAMHIK!

carld05 wrote:Remember that using CA for rosette attachment or binding attachment to spruce tops require sealing with shellac to prevent permanent yellow stains in the end grain. DAMHIK!

Right! I wash coat early and often and have smooth shellac in the channels.

followed Chris Paulick on YouTube and made a copy of his 'precision router base'.

Thanks. I've bookmarked that. It looks like a straightforward design to build.

I don't like 'multi-tools' for this because I can get Rigid laminate trimmers for a few dollars more and they are a lot more stable. I made the router base shown in the Bogdanovich (?) book and it works great. It looks crude but it's easily adjustable and very accurate. Seal the area well and start all my cuts where the fingerboard will cover. I don't use CA glue, I use HHG. I found that sealing the wood before cutting gives a clean, hair-free edge even when I used a sharp straight bit.

Brent

I've found that a rattle-can shellac protective coat works wonders for me in helping to achieve clean rosette channels. Also does its original job nicely, keeping the soundboard from getting dinged up.

I've used shellac successfully also to help reduce fuzzing, but was there not recently some discussion about not using shellac if you're planning to follow with lacquer, i.e use vinyl sealer instead?