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Cleanup can be tedious if you use too much glue. I've found that I use less tape when I use the 3M 233+ tape. I also use a paper towel to wipe the excess as I go. It doesn't take much ca glue to get under the tape. It helps to untape and use the paper towel, if you've applied too much. But, for the most part, I don't have too much to clean up if I don't get too crazy with the glue. The glue will find it's way down into the binding under the tape.

This photo shows pretty much the extent of the glue I have to clean up.

Great tutorial, and anything with a Seinfeld reference gets a thumbs-up from me.

I have a sort of love-hate relationship with CA glue (its complicated) - is the alternative Duco cement for this procedure?

You don't have to seal spruce with Duco. To use Duco, you need to apply it into the channels, then put your binding/purfing into place, then tape. I apply Duco to 1/4 of the guitar edge at a time, to allow adequate time to get the binding into place and taped, before applying more and continuing.

I found a very inexpensive and very helpful tool to use with Duco Cement: I bought a bunch of 1-ounce squeeze bottles with metal tips and little funnels to use filling the bottles, and decanted my tube of Duco into one of the bottles. Instant volume and mess control for less than half a dollar. Saved that much in glue I didn't waste. Delighted.

Peter

Do you have a source for that bottle?

Ed

I bought these through Amazon, 'Ageomet 30 pc 15 ml....'. 30 bottles, 10 funnels, $9.99. Best 35-cent tool I ever bought. I'll bet Titebond would be lots less messy for precise little jobs, too. I just did a search just on 'Ageomet' on Amazon and the bottles showed up.

thanks - will order

Ed

After visiting with John Hall and seeing how he keeps his ca glue, I keep my ca glue in plastic transfer pipettes, in which I've stretched the working end. I never open the tip of the main glue bottle. I keep several of the transfer pipettes, with ca glue, upside down in bottles on every work bench. They never harden and if I simply clean the tip with a paper towel after use, the tips don't clog. If a tip does clog, I simply snip it away.

CA glue activates when it comes in contact with alkalis and also water. Water molecules are in the air and in wood. Alkalis may or may not be present in some metal tips.

I'll post a link to John's video on stretching pipettes.

Here is the link to John Hall's video on stretching pipettes for ca glue. I use a $5 alcohol lamp and I stretch 20+ at a time to keep on hand. You can stretch them with a heat gun, or even a hairdryer, that's clamped in a vise.

The video says "Dust Collection" at the beginning, but it's the video on pipettes.

Here's the video: https://youtu.be/ZQvW_nULD18

So, I’ve not used CA glue like this before. Do I just put a couple of drops in and it seeks it’s way into the joint? The micro tip helps apply it precisely where it needs to be? I guess I’m just a little hesitant about the CA finding its way into the crack and getting good adhesion.