hide glue techniques

[JLT]

I like to use hot hide glue on things like braces and bridges, but I don't have enough projects to warrant mixing a lot of it up. I know that Frank Ford has this system of mixing it up and storing it in little sample cups in the refrigerator, so he can get just enough for a repair.

I'm wondering if I can do the same, but instead of storing it in the refrigerator, where it will eventually spoil if I don't get around to using it for a month or so, I could freeze it and thaw just what I need. Has anybody tried this?

[MaineGeezer]

Sure -- freezing works fine. That's what i do. I'm not sure what the time limit is, but it's "a long time." Probably years, if the freezer is really cold.

[ruby@magpage.com]

My daughter has a repair shop (brooklynlutherie.com). She makes a batch of HHG, dispenses it into small plastic containers the size of a fast-food ketchup cup but with a lid, and freezes them. When she needs to glue a bridge or brace, she floats a cup in hot water, and Robert is your mother's mother's son. Learned it from Flip Scipio if I recall.

Speaking of all those mothers, Happy Mum's Day

Ed

[bftobin]

Let me share a tip I got from a cello-maker back in the 70's. I know it wasn't the 60's 'cause I don't remember much of the late '60's, but, I digress. I should warn you, this guy carved some of his cello tops and backs with a small electric chainsaw. Believe me, you can't make this stuff up !!! Anyway, he said he could never get the hang of gluing the tops and backs on with hide glue until he had an epiphany while watching his wife clean the bathroom with a handheld steam cleaner. He suddenly realized that if he applied the hide glue to the edge of the top or back and the linings on the ribs, he could clamp the top or back into the exact position he needed and then steam the joint. The glue from both pieces would melt together and he would have a perfect joint. I have never tried this my self, so..........but on the other hand, this may be the REAL secret of Stradivarius !!

Brent

[Diane Kauffmds]

Let me share a tip I got from a cello-maker back in the 70's. I know it wasn't the 60's 'cause I don't remember much of the late '60's, but, I digress. I should warn you, this guy carved some of his cello tops and backs with a small electric chainsaw. I have never tried this my self, so..........but on the other hand, this may be the REAL secret of Stradivarius !!

Brent

HAHAHAHA!!!!

I use a small hairdryer to rewarm all of my joints. I've not had a joint failure since. I think I'd stay away from the steam though. The moisture could do some damage or weirdness to the thin wood used in guitars.

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[bftobin]

Thanks Diane !!

[Morecowbell]

I've used PVA glues for years and have been using hhg for the first time on my first build. Its different and takes some getting used to, but I've really enjoyed using it so far. You can add retarders (urea or salt are common ones) to lengthen the open time if you need to - for my kerfing I added enough urea to stretch the open time to 2 minutes 15 seconds. You can also add heat using a hair dryer or lamps.

The thing I really like so far is the cleanup - I always found Titebond to be a pain to get off or out of the wood where it wasn't supposed to be, which always interfered with staining and finishing. HHG squeezeout is really easy to deal with.

Its definitely not as convenient as grabbing a bottle off the shelf, but so far the novelty hasn't worn off. And being able to take something apart easily is really nice - it took me three tries to get a good joint on my back so I developed an appreciation for that characteristic!