Fingerboard side dots

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ChuckBarnett
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:46 pm
Location: Arlington, WA

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by ChuckBarnett »

20180704_171551.jpg
So, the other day I came close to giving up on quality and accuracy with regard to the placement of the side fretboard marker dots on this ukulele. I certainly would like to get this instrument done before Jesus returns! Thankfully, my wife said something that raised a question in my mind about settling for less than my best however. So I have decided to take that binding strip off but I am not sure about the best method to do that. I know enough now to ensure accuracy in drilling those holes the next time I do this.
I glued it on with Titebond and I am also concerned about the mitered corner toward the sound hole. I have enough of that koa to make another strip so that is no problem.
I may experiment with some other hardwood that is lighter than this koa to get the spots that I had to fill in to match the fretboard binding color. But I expect that I will ultimately get to this point anyhow. How would you tackle removing this binding strip? Once again I'm always grateful for this forum!
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MaineGeezer
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by MaineGeezer »

If it's "original" Titebomd, you should be able to get it to separate with the application of some heat. Find an aluminum, brass, or steel block of moderate size -- 1" square by 4" long or so would he good -- heat it on your kitchen stove to spit-sizzle hot and lay it on the strip. Use a knife blade to get under the strip and pry it off as the heat softens the glue. Re-heat and reapply the block as necessary as you work your way along the strip.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
ruby@magpage.com
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Location: Chestertown Maryland

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

You can also spend $6 and get an infrared light bulb which will heat the part:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 344222304/

Go left and right a few pictures to get the whole idea - took less than 10 minutes with hide glue on this 80 year old guitar.

I am sure that Johm Hall has many similar shots to show

Ed
Ed M
ChuckBarnett
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:46 pm
Location: Arlington, WA

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by ChuckBarnett »

MaineGeezer wrote:If it's "original" Titebomd, you should be able to get it to separate with the application of some heat. Find an aluminum, brass, or steel block of moderate size -- 1" square by 4" long or so
Thank you, Mainegeezer! It is original Titebond. Sounds like you've had some experience with this?
MaineGeezer
Posts: 1711
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by MaineGeezer »

Of course not! Purely theoretical. <grin>
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Bob Gleason
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Joined: Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:45 pm
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Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by Bob Gleason »

Fretboards warp fast if they get too much heat applied. Be careful if you use a light or a blanket. A regular electric clothing iron works great for these situations. Physically smaller is better for ease of use. Pick one up at the thrift store for a few bucks.
carld05
Posts: 170
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:19 pm
Location: Forest Ranch, CA

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by carld05 »

I've got my wife's old "travel' clothes iron. 3" wide X 6" long. Perfect for this operation. Used it twice on the same neck last week before I got it right.

Carl
ChuckBarnett
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:46 pm
Location: Arlington, WA

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by ChuckBarnett »

ruby@magpage.com wrote:You can also spend $6 and get an infrared light bulb which will heat the part:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/ruby1638/ ... 344222304/

Go left and right a few pictures to get the whole idea - took less than 10 minutes with hide glue on this 80 year old guitar.

I am sure that Johm Hall has many similar shots to show

Ed
Ed, is it an infrared lamp or is it a heat lamp?
Thank you, very much! :-)
ChuckBarnett
Posts: 136
Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2015 7:46 pm
Location: Arlington, WA

Re: Fingerboard side dots

Post by ChuckBarnett »

Thank you all, very much for your help with this! I had forgotten that Mary Lou has an old iron that she has designated the 'craft iron'. And that worked well. I was surprised how easily the binding strip came off. Almost too easy.
Made a new strip and got it on and got dots installed. One trouble I had (translation: thing I learned) is even though I ordered a special Brad Point 16 in in bit and used a fence to which I clamped the fretboard, I failed to consider that such a small bit might deflect. Thus I got to practice one more time, mixing sawdust with glue and filling a hole. This time I mixed half koa and Beech wood. Practiced with that and liked the color match. Also stayed away from using CA glue which I think had left a dark ring around the dots in my first attempt. To read drill once that hole was filled, I shortened that bit in the chuck to a half inch or so. Despite all of my eyeballing and effort I was not satisfied with the lineup of that dot. It was the right one of the two at the 12th fret. And so I decided that both of those fret markers would become 5/64" and used a twist drill bit, carefully lining up the bit to sort of cheat those holes better into line with one another. And, finally, I can live with this for my first try.
I must say that this could have been a lot simpler for Chuck. I learned some things and don't plan on forgetting them!
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