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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 8:07 pm 
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Location: St. Louis area
I've read several times the StewMac dreadnaught could have issue with truss adjustment Allen head after assy. Anyone chime in on this? Im about to sand a small relief radius in the top of the fat brace closest to the neck block. Other manufacturers do, and I would rather be safe than sorry when its too late. Comments?

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Last edited by Kbore on Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:44 pm
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Location: Bay Area
Kbore wrote:
I'm about to sand a small relief radius in the top of the fat brace closest to the neck block. Other manufacturers do, and I would rather be safe than sorry when its too late. Comments?

Not so sure if that's a good idea. You want the area pretty much flat above the soundhole. This would include not sanding a radius into the upper transverse brace. If it's the bottom of the brace you're referring to, I don't see any harm?

Read Here: http://theamateurluthier.com/projects/h ... /ps11.html


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 10:19 pm 
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Location: St. Louis area
RnB wrote:
Kbore wrote:
I'm about to sand a small relief radius in the top of the fat brace closest to the neck block. Other manufacturers do, and I would rather be safe than sorry when its too late. Comments?



Read Here: http://theamateurluthier.com/projects/h ... /ps11.html


Thanks for the reply and the reference. Unfortunately the link will not work. With a little HTML I was able to get to the site, its HUGE! Could you try posting the link again?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:43 pm 
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Sorry! This a cut & paste from KM's site:

The first thing I did was to make the jig you see below, to sand flat the 25' radius dome on the top above the soundhole. That way, the fingerboard extension will lie flat upon the top. I decided to make a jig like the one posted on the MIM Forum by Terence Kennedy, in which the sanding plate is the thickness of the fingerboard with frets, and the pivot board is the thickness of the bridge.

It worked well. Later, when I checked out the neck angle and clamped the fingerboard on top of the neck, there was no problem in how the fingerboard extension lay on the top. It transitioned very smoothly from the neck blank surface to the surface of the top.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm
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Do you put a radius in the transverse brace (brace above soundhole), in a Stewmac build?

When I build, this brace is left dead flat. To access the truss rod, a hole is drilled through the brace, toward the top side of the brace (not against the top). I'll take a photo and post it for you.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:33 pm 
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This is how you access a truss rod in one of my guitars. A hole is drilled center of the transverse brace. This does not weaken this extremely important brace.

Excuse the photo. The wire you see going through the hole is how I hang up the box to allow it to cure after French polishing. The wire comes through the place where the truss rod will be located.

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PicsArt_07-10-05.28.33.jpg


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:46 am 
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Location: St. Louis area
Thanks for the pic!
Another interesting point on the StewMac hot rod truss rod, the Allen head adjuster is slightly larger than the truss rod slot, forcing you to drill a larger hole in the end of the neck where the alen adjustment sits. No big deal, but now, that truss rod can NEVER be removed from the headstock end of the neck. Just a thought for 50 years down the road, and it's not going to be so nice to drill that clearance hole in a precise manner ( truss rod slot already cut in the neck). without a floor drill press, which is not a feature of my shop. Just a note for other builders.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 11:51 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 10:50 pm
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Location: Seattle
Kbore wrote:
I've read several times the StewMac dreadnaught could have issue with truss adjustment Allen head after assy. Anyone chime in on this? Im about to sand a small relief radius in the top of the fat brace closest to the neck block. Other manufacturers do, and I would rather be safe than sorry when its too late. Comments?


If I have the popsicle brace, I end up with some relief in the brace where the truss rod goes through. I usually do it after assembly of the body using a rattail file or a round rasp through access hole in the heel block. Before I glue in the neck or glue the fret board extension to the body on a mortise and tenon I check to make sure that I can adjust the truss rod. As mentioned above I adjust the access with a round file or rasp until I can. Once when I really goofed up I drilled the hole in the upper transverse brace on a closed box. (I do not recommend that mistake, but it came out OK.)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:32 pm 
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Location: St. Louis area
Thank you johnnparchem for that technique.
Your web site is inspirational, your guitars sound fantastic.

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