Question on jointing backs and tops

[naccoachbob]

I made a shooting board to use with a Stanley 162 No. 62 low angle jack plane. I figured the length of the plane would help me with making straight edges on the two pieces to be joined.
My first time was with a sitka top that was a bit bigger than OM size. I seemed to be chasing my tail with this thing, and was finally able to get it finished using sandpaper and a 90 degree block of wood about 4" tall. I won't swear it was the best joint, but candling it seemed to show that it was fine.
Just now, I tried jointing some cocobolo for an OM, and am not getting close.
Can someone spend a bit of time explaining how to properly use the shooting board for this work? Am I using the wrong type plane? I have a smoother No. 4 coming this week, and can move to it if it's a better plane. But I thought longer was better for plates of 22" or so. As an aside, I made sure the plane was flat - it only took a few swipes to get it that way. I set the blade to make sure it cut evenly from one edge to another, so I think I have the plane tuned in. Also, I'm going with the grain as it slides smoothly.
I'm not going any further on the cocobolo as it's not got a lot of tolerance left in it. Matter of fact, since the joint looked irregular, I used the table saw to take just a hair off, but no luck.
Any help is appreciated,
Bob

[tippie53]

you need a jointing plane longer the better I use a stanley 7

[naccoachbob]

Thanks, John, but I'm kind of stuck with what I have, so any other ideas?

[tippie53]

I would use sand paper on the table saw and see if you can get it true that way. Use 120 grit and use a roll paper . Place that under the rip fence and rub your pieces on that. I have used that method in the past. Now I use a granite surface plate.
You can also try a straight edge on a 24 in level. I suspect the plate is the issue. If the edge isn't dead sharp and square it won't work. I have one and it took me a while to get the plane iron set perfect.

[glasalle1]

Do you have a pic of the Cocobolo you are jointing? Is the issue that the middle is lower (maybe hollowed is better word?) than the ends, or the ends are lower than the middle? I used an Old Record #5 Jack Plane setup to take whisper thin per pass. The key I find is super sharp blade, and let the plane do the work, and just concentrate on even passes wrt to pressure. I find that most of the time, 4 or 5 passes and I am good to go.

Glenn

[bruster]

Hi Bob, not shore if you have Robbie O'Brien's acoustic coarse, he mite have an answer for you in Chapter 3 lesson one, I just watched and it seem's to answer your question's. Happy building bruster.

[bruster]

double post

[MaineGeezer]

I use a strip of self-stick sandpaper on the edge of a 4' level that I clamp flat on a more-or-less flat bench. I put about a 1/4" shim plate under the thing I'm sanding to raise it up off the bench so its edge will make full contact with the face of the sandpaper-covered edge of the level. Then I slide the piece along the sandpaper, applying pressure in one direction only. For example, I apply pressure only when sliding the board right-to-left.

[naccoachbob]

Thanks guys. Turns out I was cutting too deep with the plane blade.
Cleaned it up, and sandpapered it flush.
Much appreciated.