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This is the first time I've tried bending wood binding on my own. A few pieces delaminated over a few inches toward one end or the other.The binding is Maple?/Rosewood/Maple?. See the poor quality photo -- Yes, I know it is upside down in the channel.

Is the most likely cause of delamination:
1. I soaked it too long
2. poor quality glue/binding
3. Too much heat
4. other?

What are effective ways to deal with delaminated portions?

I never soak any of my wood so I can not help with that process. I do tape pairs of bindings with laminated purflings together perfling to perfling before I bend. That way if the glue softens under heat the purflings are still clamped to the bindings.

rcnewcomb wrote:This is the first time I've tried bending wood binding on my own. A few pieces delaminated over a few inches toward one end or the other.The binding is Maple?/Rosewood/Maple?. See the poor quality photo -- Yes, I know it is upside down in the channel.

Is the most likely cause of delamination:
1. I soaked it too long
2. poor quality glue/binding
3. Too much heat
4. other?

What are effective ways to deal with delaminated portions?

Binding.jpg

I don't soak the bindings, either. Just spritz it with water before you bend it. As John said, also, tape together, purfling-to-purfling edges. If you need to glue the purfling back onto the binding, just use Titebond (Original) --- the small (3/4"?) stationery clips work well to clamp the purfling to the binding edge. Just set the binding w/purfling glued down flat on the table over waxed paper, and clamp them with the stationery clip edge.

If you glue your bindings up with Titebond 3 the heat from the bending process will not delaminate the purflings.

I have had some issues with the prelamed bindings from LMI delaminating when bending, and I've tried CA and the old LMI white glue with mostly success, but the last time I did it I used TB3 and had no issue with the purfling delaminating. I never soak bindings, but I do usually lightly spritz them with water, but the ones with laminated purflings I've always done dry.

sylvan wrote:If you glue your bindings up with Titebond 3 the heat from the bending process will not delaminate the purflings.

Sylvan - does this also apply if you have used moisture? I had purflings delaminating in some places from bindings on my first two builds. Not surprisingly, most of the problems were on tight curves, like the waist (these are OMs.) Part of the problem may have been too thick bindings that needed more heat and moisture to bend without cracking.
Bruce

I don't soak the bindings but I do spritz them thoroughly with water before wrapping them in aluminum foil for bending. I do not have delimitation problems.