Fretting a bound fretboard

[naccoachbob]

Does anyone here who has bound a fretboard use CA glue to hold down the frets?
If so, thin, medium, thick? Do you just put some in the trench, then hammer in the fret?
Is there any splash? How big a deal is cleanup?
I'm asking because I used glue on one fret. I put blue masking tape either side of the fret after the fret was in, because there was a bit of a rise to the fret on one side.
I put in thin glue, held it down with pliers (padded) until it took. But the glue ran the length of my fret slot and got into the blue tape. Heckuva mess, but cleaned up ok.
I just don't want to spend that much time cleaning and also risking scarring the fretboard. However, if that's the price to be paid, I'll pay it.
Thanks,
Bob

[naccoachbob]

Yep, it did.
This isn't a re-fret though, does that matter?
I did 2 others today, and they're seated well. Is using the CA necessary now?
Using that tape was definitely a mistake. I used an exacto and a razor blade both and spent more time getting the blue out than anything.

[JJDonohue]

After slotting the FB and before gluing on binding, I taper the top of each slot with a triangular needle file...sort of like breaking the edges. Early on, I was told by repair folks, and I've experienced it myself that it makes for far less problematic fret removal because it helps to prevent chip out. It takes a little more time but I believe it's worth the effort.

I use Fish Glue when fretting because of its very long open time. It takes me about 20 minutes to pound in 21 frets and clip off the excess crown. During that time, the glue still remains tacky. After installing, I uniformly clamp the fretted board in a curved caul and allow the glue to set for 24 hours. I have found that I have far fewer fret ends coming up since using that method. If there are, I use the same technique with CA that Rick described.

FG releases with heat similarly to that of TB and LMI white.

[naccoachbob]

Thanks for all the answers, guys.
I had also emailed Ken Cierp and Steve Kinnaird. Both had suggested using a very light dab of CA on the very ends and holding the ends down until it sets.
I have already bound the board, but I can probably taper each slot as JJ suggested. I like that.
Steve also suggested waxing the board prior to fretting as the CA that's above the surface should come up pretty easily as it will set on top of the wax. I'll dang sure not put any stupid blue tape back down. Took me 30 min to clean all that gunk up on just one fret.
Oh, while I'm at it, I used this "nibbling cutter" that's shown in picture 2 of the link below, and then in Ken Cierp's answer below that. Pretty cool tool for cuting the tang off each end of the frets. And CHEAP!
http://www.kitguitarsforum.com/forum/th ... 07_0_5_0_C
I've learned a heckuva lot by my mistakes. And just as much by listening to the good advice given here.
Thanks,
Bob

[Ken C]

Bob,

I always wick CA under my frets when fretting a new f/b, and I typically bind my f/b's. I fret prior to spraying my finish, so I don't have to worry about masking or getting CA on my finish. I use a small pipette and wick CA along the fret. I then immediately clean up with a rag dipped in Acetone. Takes only a few minutes to hit every fret on the f/b using this approach. Yeah, all the frets may not need the glue, but it is easy insurance to minimize the buzzing from loose frets.

BTW, CA will also soften when heated.

Ken

[Freeman]

FWIW (and I am certainly no expert). On my first few unbound fretboards I simply hammered or pressed the frets in, then wicked a little thin CA into the ends of the slots - in part to fill them and also to help hold them in place. On my two bound fretboards (mandolin and guitar) I bound first, then cut the ends of the fret wire tangs off where they would interfere with the bindings. Before I pressed them in (using a SM caul in a drill press) I run a very tiny line of CA along the bottom of the tang and put a little drop under each end - press one in and immediately wipe off any excess. As part of the final fret leveling and dressing I clean up any more CA with a razor knife blade and 0000 steel wool.

I think it important to glue down the ends over the binding, don't know whether it is necessary to put any glue in the slot.

[naccoachbob]

I'm going to go with the light dab of thin CA at the ends, using both belts and suspenders here!
I'll wax the board first, and have something to clean up the immediate mess available too.
Then I'll use my razors.
Thanks all for the great ideas.
Bob

[Ken C]

Bob,

If you have the acetone and a rag handy, you won't need the wax or razor blade. The acetone will clean up the ca like a wet cloth sopping up your kids' spilled milk. Wick in the ca on a fret then immediately swipe with the acetone and move on to the next fret.

Ken

I'm going to go with the light dab of thin CA at the ends, using both belts and suspenders here!
I'll wax the board first, and have something to clean up the immediate mess available too.
Then I'll use my razors.
Thanks all for the great ideas.
Bob

[Darryl Young]

FWIW (and I am certainly no expert). On my first few unbound fretboards I simply hammered or pressed the frets in, then wicked a little thin CA into the ends of the slots - in part to fill them and also to help hold them in place.

Freeman, that is an interesting point you made there. I will soon be fretting my first fretboard and it doesn't have binding. I assume you pressed your frets, trimmed, then filed flat to the side of the fretboard. Are you saying that on the side of the fretboard you are trying to fill voids around the ends of the frets so everything is flat? Or am I misunderstanding your point? If I didn't misunderstand, did you use a little ebony dust in the voids then use CA and file flat after hardening?