Gorilla glue

What're You Doing?
Post Reply
Red Dogg
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Dec 06, 2020 12:46 pm

Gorilla glue

Post by Red Dogg »

Does anyone have experience with yellow Gorilla (brand) glue?

There seems to be a common misunderstanding that all Gorilla Glues are the foaming (polyurethane??) type that, as far as I know, was their first commonly available product.

Their yellow glue is roughly equivalent to Titebond III and does NOT foam. I really like it.

I asked StewMac if this could be used in place of Titebond and they basically said, "absolutely not," but I'm assuming they were of this same misunderstanding.

Any comments on this?
Posts: 104
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:19 pm
Location: Forest Ranch, CA

Re: Gorilla glue

Post by carld05 »

Don't use it. The only thing I use Titebond III for is to attach purfling to binding before bending because it is more resistant to heat but TB 3 and that Gorilla glue can creep under tension if you try to use it for other assembly processes. I use TB Original or fish glue for most gluing. They aren't as critical for quick assembly as hot hide glue. Don't you have access to TB Original?
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2018 9:12 am

Re: Gorilla glue

Post by Skarsaune »

Titebond III is also waterproof - Gorilla wood glue is as well.

It's nice to be able to take guitars apart for service when necessary, or when you make a mistake during a build. Never happens to me, ha! Steam and/or heat will release Titebond I, but not Titebond III.

If Gorilla yellow is anything like Titebond III, I'd avoid it for luthiery. Titebond I works just fine and is serviceable.
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 2409
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: Gorilla glue

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Guitars should be made for disassembly later on, if repairs are needed. I know titebond III is popular. It's properties make it very difficult to "unglue" if the need should arise, especially when doing a neck reset.

Please, use Titebond I, the Original, for constructing a guitar.

I repair guitars. When I run into a problem disassembling one, because of a difficult glue, I add $100 minimally to the bill, because of the added shop time, and more importantly, the potential damage that I end up trying to mitigate, because a difficult glue has been used.

If you have a brace problem and a brace has to be replaced, the top or back will have to come off. Necks have to be reset. Things happen.

Use Titebond Original.
Posts: 6346
Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2006 7:09 pm
Location: Hegins, Pa

Re: Gorilla glue

Post by tippie53 »

no gorilla glue
these are what I use
tite bond original
elmers white
fish glue
hot hide glue
duco cement for rosettes and binding
as Dianne points out you may have to take it apart

I have seen too many great guitars ruined from this stuff. It is painful when I have to tell a customer you destroyed your guitar and there is nothing I can do .
John Hall
Blues Creek Guitars Inc
Authorized CF Martin Repair Center
president of Association of Stringed Instrument Artisans
Post Reply