The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

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Diane Kauffmds
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

jread wrote: Tue Jun 15, 2021 4:58 am You have explained this before but I’m still confused. Are you saying that you inlay a full, round coaster shaped piece of bubinga into the spruce? Ie, remove spruce all the way to the center pin?

That might help me as I tend to break my wooden rings if I make them ahead and try to inlay them. I do like flush to the sound hole and cut just wider than the inner ring. But inlaying a coaster sounds like it might be better.
I can't route 100% of the pocket with the rosette jig so I do it like this:

I make the wood rosette by first cutting the rosette circle on outside diameter that I need. Then I cut the inside diameter hole smaller than a soundhole.. For the pocket, I start on the outside and route the pocket, leaving about 2 1/2" unrouted in the center, like you would if you were going to cut a 2 1/2" soundhole.

The rosette will then be worked like any other rosette. Once glued in I let it dry overnight. I put the top (with completed rosette) back on the pin for the rosette jig, and I route the soundhole through the rosette and top as one unit.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
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jread
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by jread »

Thanks D!
nkwak
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by nkwak »

Diane Kauffmds wrote: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:32 am The purflex has to go in with a very minimum amount of sanding. If you sand it much, you'll go right through the design.
After inlaying the bubinga, I inlaid the purflex, just slightly deeper. The entire cavity and surrounding top was thoroughly wash coated with shellac 3x.

After allowing the Epoxy to cure overnight. I sanded it back to reveal the design.

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I like it. Is that purfling ring pre-bent?
~ Neil
Diane Kauffmds
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

I like it. Is that purfling ring pre-bent?
No, but it's not necessary. Purflex is like a necklace; you can bend it in any direction. I'll take a couple of photos of how it arrives when you order it tomorrow for you.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Diane Kauffmds
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Here are photos of the purflex. The veneer wood is mounted on a rubber, or rubber-like backing, making it flexible enough to go around curves with no prebending.

Like I said, it's beautiful stuff. Just be aware that it's not necessary for the beginner. Your routing has to be perfect and I mean there's no room for error. You have to fill it with black epoxy, then sand just to the top of the design. Any sanding beyond this point will go right through the design.

I used Duco cement to glue it.
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Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
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MaineGeezer
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by MaineGeezer »

I used this stuff successfully: https://petrosguitarshop.com/products/purflex-powder

No idea which is better, or if it makes any difference at all.
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Diane and Maine and everybody -

I am working on a rosette design right now and I want to route out an area, fill it with black epoxy, then route the black epoxy for some edges strips and center strips. Do you have any experience routing epoxy? Does it behave?
Ed M
Diane Kauffmds
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

ruby@magpage.com wrote: Wed Jun 30, 2021 12:03 pm Diane and Maine and everybody -

I am working on a rosette design right now and I want to route out an area, fill it with black epoxy, then route the black epoxy for some edges strips and center strips. Do you have any experience routing epoxy? Does it behave?
Ed, I've cut epoxy like you would cut shell, with a jewelers coping saw, and I've routed. It acts great with no problems heating up or getting stuck on the router bit like plastic would. I do suggest that you use the thicker 2 Part Epoxy, rather than the thin. Firstly, you may have a hard time keeping the thinner Epoxy contained, and secondly, the thinner Epoxy will shrink more when drying, necessitating a second pour. The thicker will take longer to dry, but it's all I'll use for what you suggest.

If you've not already bought your Epoxy, I've worked with and therefore can recommend:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/re ... UTF8&psc=1
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Diane Kauffmds
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

Ed, if you want black, I recommend this dye. It's extremely concentrated and a true opaque black: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007X4AG46/re ... UTF8&psc=1
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
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ruby@magpage.com
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Re: The Irish OM Appalachian red spruce/sinker mahogany

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

This is very timely. My fretboard is just coming off of Andy Birko's CNC machine as we speak and I should have it this coming week. I need both crystal clear epoxy, and one that will behave with dye in it and under a router. Looks like I have my material

Thanks so much
Ed M
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