Blogging Fatso!

[johnnparchem]

Yes John, as you can see I used Ken's bridge locating tool but one of two things happened, either I didn't get the bridge centered in the tool from the get go or it somehow moved when I was drilling the locating holes, my mistake either way! Now do I need to try to fix it and maybe mess something up worse or is it not so bad that I could just leave it as it is?

David L

Place a straight edge or even a string pulled tight from the nut slot for the bass E string to the hole on the bridge for the E-String and see where it will be on the fret board. The main issue you could have is that you are to close to the edge of the fret board.

[David L]

In my very inexperienced opinion both of the "E" string slots on the nut are too far outboard. Should I remake the nut and move the "E" string slots inboard?

David L

[johnnparchem]

I agree the string looks close on the nut end, but as I look down the neck it looks centered. My guess is the bridge is more centered than the tool told you. I set the two e strings first and base the rest of the strings on the remaining distance in between. I would string it up the way it is and see how it is with real strings.

[Jim_H]

Depending on play style, 1/8" is a good starting point for the E strings distance from the edge of the nut. some people move either of the individually in or out from there, but that is a good starting point.

[tippie53]

It may be fine . I like to set the out side of the strings between .100 to .125 from the outside edge depending on the player. Then you have to decide on equidistant spacing or center of the strings. I think you are ok. Also if you use an actual guitar string for a visual it may look better than the twine .
You should be proud of this

[David L]

For string spacing (nut grooves) I measured 1/8" from each edge to get the two "E" strings and then used the Stewmac string spacing guide ruler thingie to locate the other string grooves.

David L

[David L]

Here's how the saddle looks as it came in the kit. Oh wait a minute, that's not the saddle, wrong picture.

[David L]

Here's the saddle as it came in the kit. Notice that one end is .370" and the other end is .305, is this supposed to be like this and if it is, which end goes at the low "E" end and which end goes at the high "E" end. I am ready to install the saddle, what is the procedure? Do I install it as it is, file the string grooves and then make some kind of string height measurement and then start making adjustments? What would the desireable string height be? Where would the string height measurements be taken? What is the meaning of life?

David L

[tippie53]

Is that a fresh bottle of fish glue ?
good articles

[Ben-Had]

Here's the saddle as it came in the kit. Notice that one end is .370" and the other end is .305, is this supposed to be like this and if it is, which end goes at the low "E" end and which end goes at the high "E" end. I am ready to install the saddle, what is the procedure? Do I install it as it is, file the string grooves and then make some kind of string height measurement and then start making adjustments? What would the desireable string height be? Where would the string height measurements be taken? What is the meaning of life?

David L

As you are looking at the picture the High e is on the left, Low E on the right. Here's how I do it. 1.) String it up, 2.) Tune to pitch, 3.) check/set the neck relief, 4.) check the strings for proper height over the 1st fret (I set mine starting the high e at .014 over Fret, then increase by .002 up to the Low E at .024), 5.) check height of strings over the 12th fret and adjust the saddle as necessary (for every 1/64 at the 12th you want to lower it, you have to take off 1/32 on the saddle and visa versa using shims to raise it, although I hate shims and never use them, I prefer to cut a new saddle). ALSO, DO NOT "file the string grooves," (unless you're talking o the nut) at least that's me. Os that somewhat what you were looking for?