redwood 00

Take us through building your guitar step by step. Post pictures and tell us what you're doing.
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Diane Kauffmds
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Re: redwood 00

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

I've done the "flat with wedge" thing, and ever since using the jig, or using 3M 233+ tape, my joints are invisible.

My ropes are around 1/4" stems of metal rod that I installed under the lower part of the jig. It allows me to loop quickly, allows the rope to slide, and tempers the force exerted on the edges.

I'll take a photo.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Cowbell

The Sultana is 52 feet on deck, 85 overall and weighs 55 tons. The Kalmar Nyckel is 96 on deck, 149 overall and weighs 325 tons. The Sultana gets maintained with 6 paid crew (they don't work for 3 months over the winter) and 5 or 6 volunteers. The Kalmar Nyckel only has 3 paid crew and needs 22 to leave the dock, so they have an enormous volunteer base. That boat gets 47,000 (forty-seven thousand) volunteer hours a year.

The Sultana is built from plans taken by the British Navy in 1768 - she was the smallest ship they had at the time. She was a revenue boat, trying to stop smugglers in America until 1772, then went into private hands - roughly contemporary with Aubrey. The Surprise in the movie was the converted Rose, a 1976 built copy of British early frigate. I climbed the rig of the Rose in 2000 before she was sold for the movie. The Kalmar Nyckel is a reconstruction of the first Swedish settler's boat crossing the first time 1638. The rigs of the two boats are quite different as that 130 year difference was a time of rapid improvements.

Google the Rose and you cans see how they changed her jus a little for the movie. You can look all three up on google images, but here is a taste:
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Ed M
ruby@magpage.com
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

Diane

I have a friend down the street who is a high-end cabinetmaker and he has a 20 HP, 4 foot wide surface sander. I just took my redwood top and figured maple back down yesterday afternoon for final sanding and he actually complimented me on the invisible joints. Ain't that a kick when you can do that??

Ed
Ed M
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: redwood 00

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

ruby@magpage.com wrote:Diane

I have a friend down the street who is a high-end cabinetmaker and he has a 20 HP, 4 foot wide surface sander. I just took my redwood top and figured maple back down yesterday afternoon for final sanding and he actually complimented me on the invisible joints. Ain't that a kick when you can do that??

Ed
It certainly is Ed. The joining jig will produce tops and backs with invisible joints every time.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
ruby@magpage.com
Posts: 1564
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 8:03 am
Location: Chestertown Maryland

Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) The friendly cabinetmaker down the street used his 20 HP, 48" oscillating thickness sander - with a 3 HP feed belt motor - to deliver me my .10" and .12" back and top. Pretty funny to see these pieces that weigh mere ounces coming out of this monster machine

2) The back center bracing is made from cross grained pieces of the redwood top - thin it and round it over

3) A double thickness of tape on either side keeps it from skidding around while it's clamped
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Ed M
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Clamped flat against the bench using cauls. I have clamped them against an arched batten but I don't think it does much with the crossgrain

2) This is a brace shaping jig I made out of 3 pieces glued together, two of them with "ramps" cut on the table saw. The two ramps are 13° and 26°, and the length is long enough for the X-brace. It is flippable in case I get uncooperative grain and have to plane from the other end. There is a 1X3 screwed to the bottom for my vise to hold onto

3) This is a sample brace at 1/4" by 9/16". I strike a line down the center of the top edge for reference
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Ed M
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Lay it in the jig in the "1" ramp - this is for the first side at 13°

2) 8-10 strokes with the plane held level with the surface of the jig

3) Flip it over and then 8-10 strokes with the plane in the "2" (26°) position on the other side. Again hold the plane level with the surface of the jig. Here is the shape I get. The jig is a little finicky, but requires virtually no set up - just carefully plane away
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Ed M
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) I lay the shaped brace on the bench, stand up the arched sanding beam along side, then trace the curve of the beam onto the brace

2) Cut on the bandsaw or plane close to the line, then sand back and forth on the beam with 80 grit until the whole brace bottom is curved - you can see the very center is not quite there yet

3) Mark the ends of where the brace goes on the back, lay the brace on the marks, then mark the center cross grain brace where it fits - I have done this with a knife also
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Ed M
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Cut the sides of the pocket with a fine toothed saw and chip out the waste with a narrow chisel

2) Glue the brace on against the arched beam - I don't use a dish or a go-bar deck because they are both pretty big and get so little use at 1 instrument a year

3) I used small blocks with a "V" cut in them to give the clamps a good bearing
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Ed M
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Re: redwood 00

Post by ruby@magpage.com »

1) Here it is with my label installed

2) Very nice figure - I looked for a while for this set

3) Great piece of redwood - that's the back in the soundhole
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Ed M
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