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Diane

I don't think it is true that you got the proportions wrong because most inlays go from big at the wide frets to small at the narrow frets. Just google:

https://www.google.com/search?q=tree+of ... 95&bih=652

Then look at "images". I think yours looks about right.


Ed

ruby@magpage.com wrote:Diane

I don't think it is true that you got the proportions wrong because most inlays go from big at the wide frets to small at the narrow frets. Just google:

https://www.google.com/search?q=tree+of ... 95&bih=652

Then look at "images". I think yours looks about right.


Ed

Thank you Ed.

I finally found time to finish the fretboard. I had to fill the inlays 3 times to make sure they were level with the board. I filled them, then allowed the board to sit until the next day.

Today, starting with 120g, I sanded the board, using my radius sanding beam. I sanded to 320g.

There is no filling around any of the design. Since the inlay actually lays below the surface, I had no idea how to fill any mistakes made from routing. Luckily, any mistakes are so minor that they're not noticeable.

Just like the proof of concept, although the design is a good .5mm below the surface of the fretboard, covered by hardened ca glue, it appears to be at level with the surface.

I had no problems whatsoever, opening the fret slots. I thought maybe the next time, I might just mark the fret positions, inlay the design, then cut the slots, to save me from having to do the slots twice.

That looks amazing! Wonderful work!

Diane Kauffmds wrote:I had no problems whatsoever, opening the fret slots. I thought maybe the next time, I might just mark the fret positions, inlay the design, then cut the slots, to save me from having to do the slots twice.

Just in case you haven't already considered this, if your frets have barbed tangs, remove the barbs where they would otherwise collide with the inlay - or drill small relief holes to make room for them. The wood will give somewhat to accept them; shell and ca glue not so much.

robinsonb5 wrote:That looks amazing! Wonderful work!

Diane Kauffmds wrote:I had no problems whatsoever, opening the fret slots. I thought maybe the next time, I might just mark the fret positions, inlay the design, then cut the slots, to save me from having to do the slots twice.

Just in case you haven't already considered this, if your frets have barbed tangs, remove the barbs where they would otherwise collide with the inlay - or drill small relief holes to make room for them. The wood will give somewhat to accept them; shell and ca glue not so much.

Thanks for the suggestion. I hadn't thought of that. I've done the precut inlay before, but this is my first time designing. I'll do as you suggest.

It's beautiful Diane!!!!

Thanks Kevin.

I finally got around to inlaying the butterfly antenna and fretting the board. I ended up using 3 strands of copper wire, twisted together and shaped, for the antenna.

I've been using a fretting caul in my drill press to fret. I finally got an arbor so I can sit down and fret. Once I got the hang of it, fretting went quick and I was done in 20 minutes. The board is ready to install on the neck and is done, with the exception of leveling the frets and dressing, which I will do once it's installed on the neck.

This has been a great tutorial in designing and executing the inlay. Very, very nice!