1st build Martin dread

Take us through building your guitar step by step. Post pictures and tell us what you're doing.
Post Reply
ClayF
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:47 pm

1st build Martin dread

Post by ClayF »

Well, I finally managed to get started on this. It sat in a mold in the closet for 3 years waiting on me to get over the jitters. As you can see I have cut the sides to length, installed neck & tailblock, and glued in my kerfed lining. I have a couple of questions about the next steps and would appreciate any advice/guidance. My kit is a Martin rosewood dreadnaught but it did not come with popsicle sticks, how necessary are they? What size should I make them and what sort of spacing should I use? Since this is an “official” Martin kit do I still need to radius the sides or did Martin do that for me?
Thanks in advance!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
MaineGeezer
Posts: 1711
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Re: 1st build Martin dread

Post by MaineGeezer »

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "radius the sides," but assuming it's what I think you mean, yes, you need to. You'll need to sand the appropriate radius into the kerfing you glued on.

By "popsicle sticks" do you mean the short braces on the sides? For those I use straight-grained spruce brace stock with the grain vertical. I space them more or less uniformly, using about four per side.
\
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: 1st build Martin dread

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

You need to radius the sides. This can only be done once in the mold, with the kerfing and blocks in place. Martin radiuses the back at 15' and the top at 28'.

If you don't use the Popsicle brace, something else needs to go in this area. I know that some people leave out this type of bracing, but it's purpose in life is to stop cracks that form on each side of the fretboard extension. There are other forms of bracing for this area, but the good old popsicle works.

You can place it so that it's centered on, and touching the back of the transverse brace. Or, you can place it in the same area, but with a gap. I like to place my popsicle braces about 1/8" away from the transverse. They're roughly1" wide, about .090-.100" thick (about 2.5mm). It doesn't go through the kerfing. Lengthwise, I leave it approximately 1" from the sides of the guitar, unless I'm building an OM to 1931 specs. In this case, the brace is only about 4" long. The ends are tapered. Just remember that it cannot be too thick, otherwise you'll have problems getting to the truss rod to adjust it.

Make sure you have a hole drilled dead center on your transverse to get the hex wrench through to adjust the truss rod.

I know you may have thought of all this, but sometimes its the little details that elude us...not that I'm speaking from experience or anything....LOL!

If you've not done it already, you should install side struts. These are thin strips of wood, or ribbon dipped in glue, which run between the kerfing on the sides. Their purpose in life is to stop side cracks from spreading should a crack happen. I've used 1/2" wide pieces of wood. I currently use brown grosgrain ribbon, which I dip in glue so that both sides are wet, but not dripping.

I've provided a picture of the struts that I put into a Brazilian rosewood build, and 2 photos to illustrate what I mean about the popsicle brace:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
ClayF
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:47 pm

Re: 1st build Martin dread

Post by ClayF »

Thanks Diane & Maine for the responses! After posting this and doing some more reading I realized what the purpose of using the radius dish was for. Guess that’s my next step. In talking about popsicle sticks I was using the term Bill Cory used in his book and was referring to the side braces or struts. In his book he actually mentioned using popsicle craft sticks, but I was thinking of using 1/16” mahogany strips for the appearance. I’m thinking of 4-6 per side. I’m sure I’m overthinking all of this and making it harder than it has to be. The funny part of that is that I build things (buildings) for a living and have for 40 years. Frequently on job sites the comment would be made “we ain’t building pianos, come on let’s go”, now that I am building a “piano” I’ve let it buffalo me.
I appreciate y’all taking the time to help keep me between the ditches!
MaineGeezer
Posts: 1711
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2014 12:14 pm

Re: 1st build Martin dread

Post by MaineGeezer »

I've also built things all my life (for personal pleasure and to save money, not as a profession.) I discovered when I started building instruments that although I am "a good barn carpenter" and a pretty good machinist, assumptions I would make about how to do something would often be wrong. One does not build a guitar the same way one builds a house. It's a new skill set one has to learn. So...be patient!
Don't believe everything you know.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
When things are bad, try not to make them any worse, because it is quite likely they are bad enough already. - French Foreign Legion
Mal-2
Posts: 104
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2018 12:56 am

Re: 1st build Martin dread

Post by Mal-2 »

Anywhere you might be considering craft sticks, seriously consider upgrading to medical grade tongue depressors. They're cut along the grain more reliably, and are designed not to splinter or bend. They'll break if twisted, but are more resistant to ordinary bending. They're also easier to score and snap accurately using a knife.

I don't know if they're more durable in use (though they just seem like they would be), but they're certainly easier to work with.

[Disclaimer: Experience is from repairing instrument cases, not the instruments themselves.]
Last edited by Mal-2 on Tue Jan 23, 2018 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Diane Kauffmds
Posts: 3246
Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:13 pm

Re: 1st build Martin dread

Post by Diane Kauffmds »

ClayF wrote:Thanks Diane & Maine for the responses! After posting this and doing some more reading I realized what the purpose of using the radius dish was for. Guess that’s my next step. In talking about popsicle sticks I was using the term Bill Cory used in his book and was referring to the side braces or struts. In his book he actually mentioned using popsicle craft sticks, but I was thinking of using 1/16” mahogany strips for the appearance. I’m thinking of 4-6 per side. I’m sure I’m overthinking all of this and making it harder than it has to be. The funny part of that is that I build things (buildings) for a living and have for 40 years. Frequently on job sites the comment would be made “we ain’t building pianos, come on let’s go”, now that I am building a “piano” I’ve let it buffalo me.
I appreciate y’all taking the time to help keep me between the ditches!
You're better off with the mahogany, IMO. I use leftover wood from the back and sides, or grossgrain ribbon. I agree that the inside should be as nice looking as the outside. Mahogany is always a good choice. While I'm sure popsicle sticks would serve the purpose, I don't care for them aesthetically. Acoustic guitars represent a lot of precise work and expense and somehow popsicle sticks just seem out of place to me.
Diane Kauffmann
Country Roads Guitars
countryroadsguitars@gmail.com
Post Reply