The scale length is determined by fret distance measurement, as you know. As long as the position hasn't shifted too much, you should be okay, assuming it was in the right position to begin with. I've found that manufacturers don't always put the bridge in the right place, so I determine the plate position, rather than relying on the manufacturer's original position.Keith Reilly wrote:Didn't know I needed to figure out the scale length before the top was attached. I'd figure with a new bridge plate and bridge even if I had to move the position I would be able to without any problems. The neck is not attached to the body. I already steamed that out. Does that make a difference? Also the neck pocket definitely needs to be fixed up from the damage that occurred when I took it off.
My plan was to attach the top, fix the neck - set the neck angle, then measure out to where the bridge is supposed to be for the correct scale length. I figure it should be at or near the original bridge position. Is this not the best way to move forward? The top is not attached yet so if their is another method...
You've probably already done the math, but determine the proper scale length by measuring from the nut to the center of fret 12, then multiply by 2; that's the real scale length. I haven't looked back to see if your guitar is a 12 or 14 fret model (14, I think). You can make your own measurements and do the math for the bridge, or simply go online and use a fret calculator, using the real scale length. Stewmac has one.
Use the calculator to determine your bridge plate position. They put the information at the bottom, in red. Just subtract the distance from the nut to fret 14 (or 12, if it's a 12 fret) from that number, and you can extrapolate the right position for the bridge plate.