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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:26 pm 
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You'll want to make sure that you clamp the torrified braces for at least 24 hours. They don't absorb water like regular wood, so the clamping time needs to be increased. Otherwise, you're good. The tapered bracing will sound nice and well rounded. You can quickly shape it with a small hand plane, or chisel. I prefer the plane.

I'm assuming you're using the new torrified for the x-braces? Good call. A lot of that old bracing from that period wasn't quartersawn.

Make sure that the grain runs vertically when you cut the new braces. You want it running straight up and down, as you look at it on the cut ends. If it's hard to see because of tool marks , then you'll notice that the grainline will run very straight along the top, but the sides will look more like normal wood.

If you need a photo to demonstrate what I'm talking about, I can take one for you.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:29 pm 
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Before I can glue the new bracing down the top needs to be prepared. Yes there is one more ladder brace, that I will take off the day I glue on the new x bracing. But besides that their is lots of bits of glue and wood from the old bracing. I figured a scraper would be the best tool for this. I actually didn't own one so I picked one up on Amazon and learned how to sharpen it. This was a finger work out. Also I was concerned that the top would split, it was a lot of scraping. It didn't and I got the surface nice and clean with exception to where there is still existing bracing. I don't know if hide glue really dulls a scraper or if I just didn't make the bur correct but it got dull quickly.

I did buy a 30' radius dish so i'm going to make a gobar deck for the clamping. I already got the fiberglass rods from blues creek I just need to pick up some plywood. Once that is done i'll notch the x braces and take the last ladder brace off and go for it.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:33 pm 
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Diane,
Yes the torriffied was for the new x braces. A photo might be helpful. Although I did just make them today I have some wood left over. If I did something wrong perhaps I still have a enough to re do it. I was going to save the rest for guitar #2 but I want to do this right.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 8:34 pm 
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No problem. Give me a few minutes.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:03 pm 
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:08 pm 
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I just happen to have some torrified bracing laying around for you. Lol

If you're using a hand Japanese saw, or something similar, you'll probably see the end grain easily. If you used a bandsaw or table saw, the end grain may be hard to see through the tool marks, so look at the top of your braces. The brown grainline should be running along the top and bottom, but not as obviously on the sides. This is the proper orientation.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:22 am 
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Okay the wood from Stewmac was quatersawn. I did make a cut with a fine tooth blade and it was easy to tell. Also I built my Gobar deck. That was super easy. Of course I looked into the dimensions on how to build it. 2 foot by 2 foot was what i came up with. Now why I didn't bother to measure my Gobar rods when I was doing this is beyond me. I have about an inch of space between the Gobar rod and radius dish. So it will just touch with the guitar in place. An easy fix but the question is how much space should be between the top and bottom deck if my Gobar rods are about 22 inches? I got them from blues creek. I imagine the closer the more clamping pressure but then the harder it is to get them in place. Whats the sweet spot?

Anyway the new bracing will go on soon. Happy new year and Merry Christmas everyone.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 3:05 pm 
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Location: Chadds Ford, PA
Looking good! You might need an additional plate at the top to keep the plywood from deflecting too much. I did mine a little differently using 0.5" threaded rod so I can raise or lower the top deck to get the optimal go-rod deflection; too much bend introduces a lateral moment and can roll the part, too little and the rods fall off as the top deflects with pressure.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 7:53 pm 
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The gobars should be about 1/2" longer than the inside top of the deck to what you're clamping. If you've not already done it, glue or staple some cheap carpet to the inside top of your deck. That way, you're rods will stay put. danl8 makes a great suggestion about making your deck adjustable.

Merry Christmas to you too.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:30 pm 
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Okay so I changed my Gobar deck design. I took back the 1/2 pipe nipples and floor flanges and got some 7/16 threaded rod. Wanted a thicker rod but that was the thickest they had for the length i needed. I decided to mortice out a space for the nut and glue it in place for the thread to screw into the bottom. Seemed like a good idea. Then for the top a through hole with a nut and washer on either side. That way the top is adjustable. Now if your thinking its not a good idea having a glued nut for the threaded rod on the bottom deck you are correct. Besides being real flimsy when I put some Gobar rods in it one of the nuts started to come up. So I'll be making the bottom more sturdy, glue on another 1/2 ply and make through holes for another set of nuts and washers.


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